Craynerd builds Wilding's - Woodward's Gearless Clock

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spuddevans:
That looks mighty fine there Chris :thumbup: :thumbup: Can't wait to see the clock installed in it.

Tim

raynerd:
Yes, thanks guys! He basically did it for the wood plus it bit extra with a bottle of red wine thrown into the mix! I just wish I had the skill - not only is he a clock maker but his woodworking skills are second to none.

The clock was fully dissassembled last night so it will be cleaned and some of the parts plated like the d(W5).

I`ll keep you up to date and thanks for taking the time to post. I`m very excited about it!!

NickG:
Brilliant Chris, can't wait to see the finished thing, it's going to be a fantastic piece of furniture and a family heirloom for sure :bow:

raynerd:
I don`t know if this one will be good enough for a family heirloom but it would be lovely to think of it as such.

Can I ask for a little more advice please:

I`m absolutely bricking myself now as at some point in the next week I`ll have to drill holes in the back board of this lovely case to both mount it to the wall and mount the clock brass back plate to the backboard of the clock case.

How would you guys mount the brass clock plate to the case back? There is a lot of weight on it with both the weights and the pendulum hanging from it. The safest way would be to drill through the case back and then mount bolts through the entire lot - obviously tastefully done so the screw heads are looking nice on the plate front. BUT if I do that, then the nuts will be on the back and ideally I wanted to mount it flush to the wall. The synchronome I have is mounted in the same way but then has battons on the back pulling the clock off the wall by about 10mm which gives room for the nuts. I don`t think the case back is thick enough to countersink for the nuts....have I any other options?

spuddevans:
What I would be inclined to do is, instead of using nuts on the back of the case, make up a backing plate out of, say 4-5mm thick steel, then drill and tap holes in the backing plate so as to spread the load over a larger area of the (wooden) back of the case.

Then just mount the clock with bolts/screws through the wooden back, screwed into the backing plate, then cut the threads flush with the backing plate (maybe then remove them and file off another 0.5-1mm of thread to make sure they are not protruding to mark the wall)

In fact, you could then use the backing plate to "hang" the clock on the wall by just adding a keyhole suitable for hanging on a screw in your wall. That would mean that the only holes drilled in the wooden back will be the ones mounting the clock mechanism to the backplate.

Just a couple of random thoughts induced by the combination of an infection and various "man-flu" remedies :lol:

Tim

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