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| Pressure fitting 1/32" wire to make a pin wheel. |
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| raynerd:
Hi chaps, a few questions if anyone can help - my next project which I`m planning for in detail at present, requires me to pin a wheel with 1/32" silver steel. There are 60 pins in total and I need to consider how to cut them all. This will be a tedious job but more importantly I need to have them nicely cut to a uniform length and a shafered end. `m considering punching the wire lengths from the rod using a home made punch that I`ve seen in a picture which is how someone else did it. I believe it works by have two halfs, the bottom sections is a cylinder with a centre bore the diameter of the desired pin length. This piece is cross drilled and the wire inserted to span the length cross section of the bore. The top section is obviously the punch which is a diameter to match the bore and keep the punch straight knocking out the required pin length. 1. It looks a good idea but I`ve never made this sort of punch and I`m unsure what shape the cutting end should be - anyone any advice? The other option is to use a dremel and some sort of guide and stop to push the wire through and cut the pins using a dremel. I`m not sure if this would work and although it sounds good, can`t think how it would be setup. 2. Any suggestions as to how you chaps would set about cutting 60 pins of I think about 1/4" ? My next question is regarding pinning the wheel. The pins are 1/32 inch silver steel wire. I`ve seen someone doing the same project explain that they made a homemade 0.022 spotting drill, spade type and followed by drilling with a 0.029 twist drill. 3.I`m not clear what a spade type spotting drill is. I presume a standard spotting drill will be too big so it will be necessary to make one? 4. I also can`t find a source of the 0.029" drill required to provide a good pressure fit with the 1/32" (0.031") pins. If anyone can give me a hand with any of these questions I`d be grateful! Chris |
| andyf:
Hi Chris, Just a couple of thoughts: Leaving aside the tedium of cutting the 60 pins for the moment, and moving on rapidly to the 0.029" drill bit, 0.75mm drill bits are readily available - just Google the red bit. 0.75mm = 0.0295", so there would be slightly less chance of the pins bending as you press them home. Might be worth getting one for a trial with some scrap. As for the pins, perhaps you could cut them slightly long, press them in, then trim them to exact length on your grinder with a simple jig on which the wheel revolves. That would also take care of any problems arising from tiny variations in the depth of the holes. Andy |
| DaveH:
Another way to press the pins in is make a small jig. Small round piece of steel drill a 1/32" hole in the centre to a depth equal to the amount you wish the pins to stick out. Press each one in with the jig, it will also help in stopping the pins bending. :beer: DaveH |
| sbwhart:
Chris I've found by experience that small drills tend to cut dead size, I'd drill the holes for the pins with 1/32 drill and use 1/32 silver steel for the pins they will fit snug in the holes a spot of supper glue will secure them for good. To cut the pins to length you can make a little fixture up using a dremel:- Marv has posted a nice design on her and HMEN. Ask yourself the ? why 1/32, what would 1/16 pins look like if the answer is they will look ok, you can buy 1/16 soft iron or brass rivets. Stew |
| PekkaNF:
If I got you you right: You are considering shearing round rod to size? Any shear or punch will deform end of the pin. I have a bench shear that has a round hole. The blades are pretty tough and fitting. Same thing when you have a look on mass produces parts. You are using silver steel, probably for finished diameter? I would check first if there would be any mass produced part that would be close - like needle bearing pins? Then again 60 pieces is not that hard to make if you come up with a production method. Then I would have a look on my tooling to see what I could do. I would do them following way: The big idea: Cut them a very little long on the lathe and then file ends to dimenssion (and mainly to remove the pip) on large batches. You need a stop that will not touch the rod when you part off and you want to make camfer and cutting as fast as possible. * Clean the lathe, these would become soon an inntegral part of your swarf collection.... * Clean the tray under the lathe bed to collect the parts, you will be able to salvage most right in situ. * you have to consider lathe rpm and the free end of the long rod (if you are using long pieces!) from the tail end of the chuck, you don't want free end whipping around at 3000 rpm! I have used a plug with fitting hole at the end of the head stock spindle and a pipe clammpped on a stay. I leave a little gap here and I advance the material from the rear end of the spindle, chuck ends has the tools and after sixty tries your hands would look a rosegarden botanists. * fit a stop to tailstock, I probably would use a drill arbor, centre hole is plus. Tighten it to allow space near chuck. * Then I would place a piece of old feeler gauge or shimstock betreen this silver rod (clean end) and tail stock stop AND advance the material until it meets the shim. Tighten the chuck, pul out the shim and there you have clearance to part off! * If you have a back tool holder for parting of blade and front toll holder for a camfer insert, it's a matter of setting a stop to set camfering depth. You need to lock the cross slide reliably. Now camfering and cutting comes on one cycle of cross side, If the cutting tools can be adjusted close to each others, this movement comes short and pretty fast. Biggest time is spent on chuckking/unchukking the material. This might not work so fast if you have short pieces of rod and different lathe. Revolver lathe and a proper collet chuck would have turned these parts faster that it took me to write this..... Finishing ends: my first instinct is to make and use simple jig - many small parts, fiddly etc: * Take a 1/4" (thickness to size the lenght of the pins) gauge plate or such, big enough to clamp it down on table and pepper it with close fitting holes, something like least 10!. * Attach a tape over the holes on the jig (reason comes apparent soon:). Place jig taped side down over a flat, clean surface and insrt bach of pins into them. This is fiddly. You may want to put them "same side up", othervice camfering is compromized. * File the pin ends even, leave them somewhat over the surface Wach the camfer! * Now clean the lot with a soft brush These pins being small I would not risk of dropping them when turning the jig over! * Turn the jig and chase those dropped pins * I you are tidy and lucy, you should have most of the pins in place...Now, if you were smart as well, you should be able pull out the tape out without a drama. * Then file at your's hearts contest until everything is fairly flush. Gauge plate should size them nicely * Bristle time. Place a cup by the edge of the table SLIDE the jig out of table....just in case. This all depends.... Repeat few times.... How does it sounds? Pekka * typozzz!! looks like my processor was not in gear, but printter kept pushing... |
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