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New table: What shoulf I considerate for measurement and marking out?
PekkaNF:
Steve :whip:
My color coding is partly similar, but it also includes bright stoc, part of it eazzy to machine, some of it is PITA. Nice when you have to destroy one drill to find out that you were messing with work hardening stuff and peck drilling is not the way to go. Then I had some that I had to recycle, it looked fine, but had hard spots and carbon inclusions...scrap metal has HSS and toolbits?
I like this material groupping, maybe I should make a FATline, that would indicate the material group and then stripe of additional coding....
http://www.lamina-tech.ch/img/catalog/454.pdf
I'll be tripping over my hair before i can make up my mind, but when I do, I'm going to enforce it as an universal and binding rule that everybody has has to use :whip: :whip: :whip: :whip: and bow on me :bow: and....never mind: it's time for my late afternoon pill :lol:.
Pekka
Lew_Merrick_PE:
Pekka,
1) Setting the tabletop height at "elbow height" is not really a good idea. Make it 15 or cm below that height maximum. Remember that (A) you will need to stack things up from time to time and (B) that you will be reaching into the center of the area.
2) As I have separate layout bench and surface plate set-ups, this may not apply to you. My layout bench is made up of oak boards 1.5 X 3.5 inches (3.75 X 8.75 cm). They are assembled into a grid that has a nominal 8 inch (20 cm) spacing. The "long boards" are 72 inches (6 ft -- 190 cm) long. The "short boards" are 6.5 inches (16.3 cm) between the "long boards" (doweled and glued in position) to make a table that is 41.5 inches (104 cm) wide. The spaces in the grid allow me to place clamps to hold things in position. The whole surface is as flat as one can make it using a plane and a 6 foot precision straightedge.
This top is mounted on a pair of trestle legs. Three of the trestle feet positions have 1/2 inch (12 mm) carriage bolts threaded into them such that the carriage bolt has a 1.25 inch "gap" to the nominal level base. I can then level the bench by adjusting the carriage bolts using the square portion just under the head and lock them in place using a mating nut. Done right, this is a rock solid set-up.
When my layout bench is in (semi-)permanent position, a small roll-away chest holding my various layout tools lives beneath it. The trestle legs are set to line up with the vertical members of the grid (1.5 inches wide) and are attached using socket head cap screws (so I can remove them from the "top"). Wooden dowel pins hold them in place so I don't need nine arms to assemble or disassemble it. The top is a "heavy grunt" lift, but I can move it myself. The trestle legs have longitudinal runners (made from 1 X 6 lumber) that bolt between them so they can be set up independently of the top. I have a couple of pieces of high quality cabinet plywood that will fill in four of the "grids" when I need to deal with small parts. They have cut-outs in them to allow me to get clamps on those small parts so I don't end up chasing everything around as I work on it.
The whole thing is finished with three coats of spar varnish. In the 30 or so years I have been using this set-up, I have only "dinged" it a couple of times. Repairs after such a "ding" are fairly easy woodworking. My "layout top" is set to my waist height.
krv3000:
so was my chart any good ???
Lew_Merrick_PE:
Re: Color Coding Metals -- There was an American (ANSI) standard for such color coding. It was one of the (many) things that became unenforceable after the National Bureau of Standards (NBS) was dismantled and replaced by the National Institute for Standards Technology (NIST) -- which exists solely to protect intellectual property rights.
PekkaNF:
Thank you Lew, That was good info. I'll take that consideration. You probably work with big stuff.
krv3000, Thank you. Those ANSI numbers and that methology are not familiar to me, but I'll check if I can cross reference and find the ones that interest me.
Pekka
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