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DIY fixed steady for a lathe: CQ9325 10 x 18" (250x450mm)
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PekkaNF:
First thing first: Thank you fellas, I tried silver soldering and I'm pretty sure I had an success. Remote controlled brazing - wring commands :clap:

First picture: Parts before cleaning. Dish soap, hot watter, steam blast from espressomachine - well I had to make one latte! Then filing, brake cleaner (not the one with war quality chemicals) and some 1/2 hrs od drying out.g

Second picture is about torches. I used the Sievert and the burner that is connected to it. Took only less than 10 secs to bring whole lot to a dull red.

Third is heart. There is small cap back/up to allow good circulation. I had flux prepared on arms and placed there snips of silver solder.

Fourth is about brazed parts. I used M8 nuts and M3 screw and washers to hold parts evenly. I was not sure when solder melted...first flux pubbled and then solder flashed, I held heat a little longer and pressed the brass bar down. Could have used just tad more solder on one joint.

Fifth, sawn off and evened out on the mill. I wonder if there is any good way of cleaning the residue? I used brass wire brush.

Pekka
lordedmond:
get some citric acid powder form your health food store or home brewing store

mix about two tea spoons to  500mm of water  dunk them in for a couple of hours that should do it



don't worry its very safe its only lemon juice you can put your finger in no trouble ( unless you have a cut then it stings )

Stuart
PekkaNF:

--- Quote from: AdeV on June 01, 2011, 05:31:58 AM ---Going back a few days....

The only thing I'd do differently to the way you've done it; I'd have used a roughing cutter, rather than a smooth endmill/slot drill (speaking of which - there's no significant difference between the two, when cutting "on edge" like you are. I suppose in theory the 4-flute endmill would need a slower feed than the 2-flute slot drill, to prevent clogging, and the former would give you a nicer finish.

A roughing mill, on the other hand, has serrated edges, which allow you to chew through the metal much faster than with a regular end mill (using a 12 or 16mm roughing cutter, I'd be taking 1/2" deep cuts in Ali, at whatever feed rate "felt right". Obviously, you have to cut the hole undersize, and finish off with a proper end mill (or slot drill, if you run it fast enough), to leave a smooth edge.

Have a look on eBay for roughing cutters; or drop me a line if you fancy a couple of 12-16mm ones, I have a few spares.

--- End quote ---

Thank you

Right now I'm thinking which cutters to buy. Looks like I'm missing a long roughing mill for ali :D I used long 10 mm for this. I also two 14 mm mills, just trying to figure out if this warrants 14 mm ortlieb collet, then 14 mm would be pretty logical. I think I buy 16 mm short slot drill and short end mill.

I opened 3 mm deep slots for arms (shoes), with 12 mm short roughing mill. Removed ali pretty fast. I made slots with three passes to keep them strainght. Made slots pretty tight. I'll see do I need to file anything after I cut the lots to the arms.

Pekka

PekkaNF:

--- Quote from: lordedmond on June 02, 2011, 11:27:03 AM ---get some citric acid powder form your health food store or home brewing store
mix about two tea spoons to  500mm of water  dunk them in for a couple of hours that should do it
don't worry its very safe its only lemon juice you can put your finger in no trouble ( unless you have a cut then it stings )

Stuart

--- End quote ---

Thanks. I'll try it right away. I always have some!

Pekka
andyf:
 :thumbup: :thumbup: Finns can silver solder!

Slotting the ends of the steel arms, standing them on end, laying the bronze across the slots and doing all three at once like that was a great idea, Pekka  :clap: :clap:

I'm glad it went so well. I'm sure you will have enough solder in the third one, but just to be sure you could fit it at the bottom of the finished rest. In use on the lathe, the job being turned will tend to flex upwards and to the back of the lathe, so the bottom arm won't be under much pressure.

Lemon juice contains about 48 grammes of citric acid per litre, which is about as strong as Stuart's mixture, so if you can't find citric acid you could always use that. But I think alcohol prices in Finland are high, so I expect there will be plenty of home brewing and wine making shops  :beer:

Andy



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