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| DIY fixed steady for a lathe: CQ9325 10 x 18" (250x450mm) |
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| andyf:
Pekka, perhaps you could use steel arms with brass tips brazed/silver soldered on the ends. Andy |
| PekkaNF:
--- Quote from: andyf on May 30, 2011, 02:14:18 PM ---Pekka, perhaps you could use steel arms with brass tips brazed/silver soldered on the ends. Andy --- End quote --- With my brazing skills? Umh. Looks like every brit is born to braze and born with a blow torch. Even idea of it gives me heebie jeebies -shudder-. I did consider doing arms out of key stock (softis steel) and screwing brass tips. Lets's see how I feel on wednesday - my mext chance. Pekka |
| John Hill:
Very interesting project Pekka. |
| PekkaNF:
--- Quote from: andyf on May 30, 2011, 02:14:18 PM ---Pekka, perhaps you could use steel arms with brass tips brazed/silver soldered on the ends. Andy --- End quote --- TAKE II: Maybe I should give it a try? I found out of treasure pile one roller bearing eh? retainer? 23 cm. diar ring that seemed to have right kind of bronze. I have silver soldered copper pipe with bronze lookking brazing rods and a mysteryflux I got from shop. I have a sievert LPG torch. Would this kit work? But I don't have a foggies idea and after searching this site I'm even more confused? I can find stuf like this: http://www.lucasmilhaupt.com/en-US/brazingfundamentals/ It's great, but very long way to my spesific need: Bronze on steel key stock with siervert torch. Torch: I have a standard sievert and Rothenberger ROFIRE http://www.rothenberger.com/en/products/product-groups/soldering-and-welding-equipment/soft-soldering-unit-rofire.html I have 11 kg LPG gas for Sievert and Multigas 300 Propan / Butan for Rothenberger, but I can get MAPP or Maxigas 400 1) I understand cleaning and fitting the parts together...Do I need to picle the parts? If I do how and what? 2) Do I need a special solder and flux? I have some mystery stuff I have bought 20 - 11 years ago. See picture. This sort of stuf I can get from any plumming shop. I can get also Rothenberger brand fluxes and brazing rods from local Bauhaus, but most of the British brands I see advertised on magazines are not available here. Im I lookking for a silver solder and flux for that temperature or is it more complicated? http://www.rothenberger.com.au/upload/rothen_rothenberger/promotion/161/public_document/Watermark%20Certificate.pdf 3) How to fix? Mill the slots, clean, piece of solder between the joints, bronze part up up and heated, fluxing, slow cooling? Do I have a good chance for success this way or should I just trundle away with smallish arms (cut from 8mm thick bronze?) I know I'm asking a lot, but I know so litle about brazing, I need close to blow-by-blow intructable with this equipment, materials and aplication, othervise I even can't learn from my mistakes. Thank you, Pekka |
| John Hill:
Hi Pekka Silver soldering is easy! Just clean your parts with a file, no need for any chemical treatments. If your flux is a powder then mix a little into a paste with water, apply flux to the parts, not too much but make sure the surface is covered with paste where you want the solder to be but avoid putting flux where you do not want the solder. Place the pieces in position in a little hearth that you make with fire proof bricks. It is important that the heat is all around the work and a little hearth does that. Snip off some pieces of the solder and lay them along the joins. Heat the work, heat both pieces trying not to play the flame over the solder, in fact it is best to heat from the other side if possible. If you have a big piece it is best to start heating it away from the join so that when you heat the join not so much heat will flow away. When the metal is hot enough the solder will melt and flow into the join by osmosis so the joints should be close fitting but they do not need to the clamped or anything like that. If you think there is not enough solder to fill the join you can add more, do this by dipping the end of the solder stick into your flux paste and melting the end over the join. This is OK but you will have a much neater job if you can avoid adding solder in this way. Once the solder flows into the joint stop heating then let it cool naturally in the hearth. John Bogstandard is a expert on this and will hopefully add his advice. John (aka The Artful Bodger) |
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