Webster-S Build

[srm_92000]

Hello all,

After weeks of hard design work ok..ok.. beer drinking 
I've finally made some chips from this:-



Thanks goes to Chris (Craynerd) for the inspiration to start this by the way.

Sorry it's anopther Webster but I am going to make a few mods so it should still be interesting to see if I can get it to work.
The main mod being that it is altogether a bit bigger as can be seen from this.



All my work is metric but it'll be 1" 25.4mm bore and 32mm stroke making it 16cc.
I know many will say I'm mad but I have just finished a Stuart 10v made exactly to plans so I felt I wanted to do a bit of design on the fly.
I'm planning to include a cam-shaft back over the con-rod to another plate holding the ignition (conventional points) and exhaust cam operating the exhaust valve on the opposite side to the inlet.
This sort of defeats the original premise of the webster being a simple build but that is not my main aim in this project.
This won't be a quick build but I hope it will be of interest.
The first job has been a real test, the slots being all cut using the tiny parting tool shown resting on top of the tool-post

1.5mm tool 2.5mm slots ! It's taken be about a week on and off, I had to grind the tool twice for each slot and it was still VERY slow going.
I could have done with a carbide parting tool but needed to save the money for a new 10mm boring bar -- next job.

Thanks for looking,
Steve.

[raynerd]

Nice start mate... I`m glad my build log has started you on this engine!

Cylinder is already looking great! Nice work.... 

 

[DaveH]

Steve,

Nicely done 

DaveH

[saw]

Looking good 

[metalmad]

nice start Steve
and remember there is always time for more Beer 
Pete

[srm_92000]

Thanks for the comments all.
Don't you just love it when presents drop throught the door....
This just arrived.

Pictured next to its normal size brother.
I decided to go for the RZ7C it has a slightly longer reach as my head is going to be a bit thicker (probably the beer again  )
I like the idea of a few more threads in the ally than the CM6 it's still M10x1.0
Any thoughts on gap size guys. Standard is 0.7mm, do we go with that or tweak it a bit.

Cheers,
Steve.

[srm_92000]

I thought I was making progress again today-
Got the new bar so I could get going on the bore.
I know theres a lot hanging out the tool-post but all went well. No chatter and tested a spring cut when nearly to size and it only took .03mm off the diameter, not bad I thought.

Then I took the final cut. I'd left .18 mm from the final dimension of 25.40. That was supposed to be .1 cut + .03 spring + leave .05 under for Lapping/Honing. then I saw the finish after just the cut.

I measured and it was to size !!!! nothing left to take off
Picture shown after a light rub with emery paper so looks actually loads worse than it is but still very dissapointing.
The new tool has a slightly different looking tip to my old one. New on the bottom-

If you look closely at the bottom one on the pic you can see where the coating has chipped off, this happened after the first cut as though it were just paint, the tip beneath looked, and still looks fine. I realise these generic tips are not probably the correct grade for cast, or being used anywhere near the right speed & feed, but I'm sure the old ones worked much better when I did the castings for my 10V.

Ho hum, maybe better luck tommorow.

Steve.

[lordedmond]

that tip look chipped to me

a pic with it facing would tell


Stuart

[srm_92000]

Hi Stuart,

Yes it looks chipped, I'm trying to get a better close up picture but both my cameras aren't quite up to it.
I think I need to make an adaptor to hold an additional lens in front for real close close-ups 

I looked under a microscope and it really does just look like the paint! has come off, this was after the first cut and it looks exactly the same now after boring from 13-25.4mm with no wear or chipping of the edge beneath.
Must try it on some steel to confirm condition.

I've lapped the bore some and I think I was worrying unduly as its come up ok after adding just .05mm to the diameter.
So I'll get on with the rest and see how it goes.

Cheers

Steve.

[srm_92000]

Hello again,

I've started on the head block now using a large block of ally that I bought a few years ago, not sure why


Hacksawed a chunk off the end and prepared to mill square but had a bit of a mishap.
I decide to check all the alignment of my mill first.
It was a bit out so shimmed the column mount a bit more (Already did it fairly close when I first bought it.)
Things looked fine but a final tighten and the thread for one of the bolts in the cast base stripped

The bolts are really not long enough, M8 with only five threads in the cast, so had to drill and tap the base deeper for a long stud, others are temporarily still using the old bolts without the thick washers supplied as I only had one M8 nut.

So on to the work-


My little X0 coped amazingly well, taking it steady with just 0.5mm cuts at about 400 rpm.
I had to take off about 9mm ! Wish I had room & finances for a power saw.

Here's some of the designs for the head block done with 123D.



Thanks for looking.

Steve.

 

[raynerd]

Hehe - an aweful lot of bling in the design, I like it    Just to clarify, that 123D is the free CAD software Jason linked to in his recent post?
Chris

[srm_92000]

Chris,
Yes, that's the one - I should have put that in.
Seems nice, or rather, will be nice, still lots of quirks for Autodesk to sort out but they seem to be actively working on it.
As far as I can tell the beta was only released a couple of weeks ago.
I've spent all my time last week (Between taking endless cuts off the chunk of ally) trying to get to grips with it.
Lots of promise, but very frustrating at the minute.
If you have a go prepare to lose many hours. There doesn't seem to be an 'auto save' so save every time you make a change as it will crash - A lot.

Good luck-
Steve

PS. Nice to see your Webster back together 

[Rob.Wilson]

Hi Steve 

Looks like your off to a good start  ,,,,,,,,,, your idea for  finning of the head looks great 



Rob

[srm_92000]

Hi,

Thanks for comments. It's nice to know someone's watching.

I've made a bit more progress on the build.
I was held up a bit as the head block wasn't going to fit in my 4 jaw so I had to make some clamps to hold it on the face plate -

They'll come in useful for other stuff too though.
It was a bit scary having this lot spinning round but with the nuts on one clamp bolt and a big 'T' nut bolted behind it balanced quite well, only spun it at about 400 rpm but it still bored out ok


Cheers for looking,
Steve.

[Ronkh]

Sorry it's anopther Webster

Why apologise?
I love watcing these engines come together and will have a go myself soon.

Regards,

Ron.

[doubleboost]

Hi
Steve
That is looking nice 
I do like a big engine 
John

[DaveH]

Steve,

It was a bit scary having this lot spinning round but with the nuts on one clamp bolt and a big 'T' nut bolted behind it balanced quite well, only spun it at about 400 rpm but it still bored out ok

I bet it was 

 

DaveH

[srm_92000]

Hi all,

Finally a little more progress to report, I really know how to make things difficult for myself

Set up to mill all those fins and 5 holes.
Why 5? I hear you ask, cause I thought it would look nice!
First I used an MT 2 collet and the little draw bar I made to fix a 12mm slug with M6 studding into the RT.




I then centred the 12mm bar to the spindle using the X-Y table and zeroed both handles going clockwise (as I always do so I remember where I am if I leave a job til the next day.)
Then mounted the part and centred that, tapping until it read true when turning (by hand) the spindle.
As a check spinning the RT it was all within .05mm.



Then needed to set the edge of the part by rotating the RT and traversing the X until it clocked zero (making sure I didn't mess up the X collar setting.)



Noted the whole degrees reading on the table and zeroed the RT handle collar.
Then I could drill, counter-bore the holes and mill the slots, all using the centre of the main bore as a reference.



Finally couldn't resist a little mock up shot with the plug in, haven't even taken the burrs of yet, or done the top fins but I was quite pleased with the way it went.



FEW!

Next time I post a plan with all them bits to it - someone stop me! Please!
 

Thanks for looking again,
Steve.

[doubleboost]

Looking very nice
John

[srm_92000]

Thanks John,

Should have the top fins and a bit of clean up done over the weekend.

Steve.

[raynerd]

Looking great! 

[srm_92000]

Cheers Chris,
I really must think before I say I'm going to do something in future!.
The ONLY reason the fin slots are 7mm deep is because that's all the 3mm slot drill I've got will do and how I drew it.
So why didn't I just say 5mm deep?

would have saved ages.

And doing them all at odd angles 
I need help!

Steve.

[PekkaNF]

That has big swift of reverse transition from art deco to functionalism in it. Like the way it look.

Pekka

[metalmad]

Hi Steve
I love it 
Pete

[srm_92000]

Hi,

Delayed thanks for the comment Pete,
and Pekka, glad you mentioned art deco that was actually the sort of the look I was going for,
only problem now is I've got to come up with designs for the rest to fit in with it,

Still not done the top fins yet but will hopefully update soon.

Steve.