Gallery, Projects and General > How do I??

Mini Lathe Electrikery.......

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Stilldrillin:
I was going to ask, if I solder a wire along the bottom run of blown copper.......




But, MOSFETS and things have now lost me......  :scratch: ::)

Guess I need an Electrician.......  :(

David D

Bluechip:
Yes, you can.

But don't solder wire across the 4 ( 2 either side ) that connect to the 'doughnut with copper wires'

Those should not be there .. as you can see, only where the copper trace is showing having burnt off the conformal coating green stuff..

What is the wattage of the motor??

My WM16 is 600W. I use a 5A in the plug and a 6A slo-blo in the machine fuseholder. But the controller is a bit different. SCR's not MOSFET's.

I would make sure you have a 5A in the plug top, and check what fuse is in the machine. Seems like a lot of damage for a probably simple fault.

IF the MOSFET(s) have gone pop, it should have opened the machine fuse and that's it. All that grief seems very odd.

If that's the input filter, it's dragged a hell of a lot of current from the mains to blow the trace.



Dave BC

AdeV:
That's a very strange looking bit of damage... normally with burning like that to the bottom of the board, you'd expect to see a blown component and - at the very least - heat damage to the top of the board.  On the other hand, the neutral wire on the input side looks like the insulation has melted back, which implies great heat; yet the output wires all look fine; i.e. the heat problem was contained within the circuit you've pictured.

One way to test this theory would be to bypass the board, and put a very low value fuse in the plug (3 amp tops). It's possible that a 3A fuse wouldn't survive a normal startup, but it should be enough to check that any ancillary functions (DRO, lamp) are still working. If your speed controller allows you to do a slow motor speed start, then you could try firing it up; if it runs away before blowing the fuse then the problem is in the controller board, and the hot suppressor circuit is a symptom rather than the cause.

However, my money would still be on the suppressor circuit: A) it's the source of the white smoke (burnt board), and B) the output wires don't show the heat damage that the input wires do. Assuming, that is, that I've got the board the right way around (the choke being the furthest part from the plug). If it's the other way around, then the problem is definitely deeper into the machine...

lordedmond:
I am 99.99 % sure its the suppressor circuit as AdeV said disconnect it and join the wires colour for colour with a small say 3 to 5 amp fuse in the plug top , you will disrupt the tellys  :)

the damage looks to me as to swarf ingress as you have had flash overs in the past , as other have said there is no component damage compared to the board side



Stuart

jim:
hope you get it sorted!

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