An experimental V-4 wobbler

Gallery, Projects and General > Project Logs

<< < (10/15) > >>

Bogstandard:
That's exactly what I mean Tim. Most times it is done on the standard, but it can also be cut as you have shown and as I said.

The use of magnets is really intriguing me, I can't wait to see how it turns out.

I'm all for experimentation with new ideas.

John

spuddevans:

--- Quote from: Bogstandard on May 23, 2011, 02:44:33 PM ---That's exactly what I mean Tim. Most times it is done on the standard, but it can also be cut as you have shown and as I said.

--- End quote ---

I can see how this will reduce the friction, I think I might make the cuts on the frame instead of the cylinders due to holding the frame in the mill being a lot easier than the cylinders, thanks for that suggestion :thumbup: With the strength of these magnets, eliminating as much friction as possible will really help.

--- Quote ---The use of magnets is really intriguing me, I can't wait to see how it turns out.

I'm all for experimentation with new ideas.

--- End quote ---

The idea of using magnets to hold the cylinders on has fascinated me for about a year, but only at the start of this project have I had any chance to try it out. The worst that can happen is that it doesnt work, but having done a few rough-n-ready tests of the strength of pull's of various magnet sizes, and also of magnet to steel strengths, I have come to the conclusion that I will be faced with the problem of too much attraction rather than too little, and that should be solved by adjusting the size of the steel inserts that the magnets attract to, as well as having the option of slightly increasing the operating gap between magnet and steel insert.

At the moment I am still making parts that should not have any adjustments to them, but in a while I will be back to making experimental parts and adjusting them, then updating the plans on Alibre to match, should be fun :smart:

Tim

spuddevans:
Just a brief update, I found a couple of hours in the 'shop and made a start on the packing glands, or rather, the gland nuts.

I was intending making direct copies of the packing glands as designed by Bog's in the paddleducks build, but as these are quite a bit smaller I had to reconsider.

Therefore I came up with an experimental design ( at least I think it is experimental, I havent seen in used on other builds. Time will tell if there is a very good reason for that :lol: )

But just like in the paddleducks plans, I am making the nuts 1st so that they can be mounted on the packing glands for theu drilling to ensure concentricity.

So I started out with some 8mm brass hex in the 3jaw

Then used the round profile tool to form a profile on one end, then centre drilled

Drilled to a depth of 3-3.5mm

Then tapped M4, I had to grind the tips off the taps, you can see an unground tap in the background.

Then part off and repeat 3 more times.

I then spent the rest of the time I had figuring out how I was going to turn the packing gland. I did make just one, just to see how and if I could make it. And just to tease you here's a pic of it with the other nuts.

These packing glands are of an inverted thread design, ie the exterior thread is on the gland, the interior on the nut. I reaslise that this is not standard, and am half expecting that it will not work quite as well as the more standard version. I have very little room for anything else on this engine, plus I expect this engine will be operating on fairly low pressure (about 5-10 psi once ran in) and so should run ok even without any stuffing in the packing glands.

Next time I will show how I turned the glands (or at least the 3 remaining ones :lol: )

Tim

spuddevans:
On to the rest of the Packing glands.

I chucked some 20mm brass bar and reduced a section to 13.8mm ( the required od ) and then reduced a 0.5mm bit to fit the bore on the cylinders (about 8mm)

Then I swapped over for a parting tool and turned a 4mm long section down to 4mm diameter.

Then after parting it off and making the others, I mounted a 14mm collet and reversed the glands in the chuck, then using a tailstock die holder I threaded the 4mm diameter spigot M4 as far as I could get, and then centre drilled the end to form the "V" for the packing.

Then screw on the packing nut made earlier and centre drill it

Follow up with a 2mm drill bit and drill thru both the nut and the packing gland (carefully pecking to prevent drill snappage) and make sure that you keep each nut paired with the gland.

And here all 4 are,

I then unbolted the ER32 chuck from the lathe and gripped it in the mill vice to drill the 4 mounting holes.

And here is the obligitory posed shot with a cylinder (complete with magnet epoxied in place)

Next up will be the pistons and con-rods, crank webs and crankshafts.

Tim

saw:
Nice work, but why not studs and bolts? :thumbup:

Navigation

 Message Index

Go to full version