Tina :- Engine and Boiler Build

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lordedmond:
getting married , watching the royal wedding whats the whorl of ME coming to :doh:

only joking our wedding was in 1968 :)

Peter ( Klank )

just to let you know I have cleared the bench for this little boiler build , just done the foundation ring what a job, got the outside fitted then inner would not go in ( metric / inch materials me thinks ) so a delicate job to skin out the inside for a slightly loos fit got to leave a little room for the SS

Should be done by the end of the week if we get a dull day to do the soldering ( have to do it outside the WS is to small for big burners inside ) I cannot see the colour ( color for across the pond ) of the metal in the sunshine

I will alert you if I run into any big loo loos

then its time to make all the fittings WG etc

Stuart

Rob.Wilson:
Hi Peter :clap: :clap: :clap: :thumbup:

Looking forward to seeing what you decided to do with the crank , ,, yes that was just a quick example i drew in CAD ,, easier to draw than describe :doh: .

Stuart ,,, i hope you will decide to start a thread on your boiler build :poke: :)

Rob

lordedmond:
Rob

its getting the pic's to the correct size I am beta testing a new OS for the Mac called Lion at the moment coupled with the camera takes a 21 - 50 meg file they are huge but good Qi

Stuart

klank:
Trying to stay on topic :-

I used Rob's very nice CAD type sketch, and set to with a hack-saw and file on the plain-Jane crank disc having used a paper template.
I am quite pleased with the result, and in a fit of "creativity" turned up the crank pin and keys.
Here are the components :-

Here it is assembled :-

One glaring error shows here - the "reveal" in the crank disc for the head of the key locking it to the shaft looks dreadful. Its too big and badly spotted. (I did say this was a "warts and all" diary).
I have subsequently mixed up a blob of Stabilit Express (good quality epoxy) with some iron filing dust, and back filled that orifice and re - cut it to a better fit. After sanding/polishing/painting it shouldn't look too bad - I hope!

Next up is the connecting rod.
According to the basic plan, a goodly length of 3/4" X 1/4" mild dteel bar (flat) is supplied. The basic con. rod is just this, drilled/reamed at each end for push - in brass or bronze bearings. To say it will look a bit naff is a kindness - but it is very simple - this IS a beginners' engine. In real practice, a straight bar rod was never used.

Stan Bray suggests using the supplied material as a basis for something better.
He turns the bar up to a round(ish) cross section having drilled/reamed the flat ends, turning a slight taper up to the centre of the rod, leaving two flat ended big/small ends. These are given a bit more dignity with "dummy" bolt heads and scribing across the centre to look like proper split - end bearing caps.
He also suggests another alternative would be to leave the rod as flat, with dummy ends, but with a "fish belly" double taper down top and bottom edges - plus a bit of fluting if you are so inclined.

I am including a couple of pics. of this type of con. rod which I made for a "double side rod" engine - although these rods have "proper" wedged marine type small ends and split big ends. (That engine is not yet finished - lots of plumbing and governor to do yet). :-

and I tried to get a closer view of the fish belly rod here - not very good :-

For this build (Tina), I think I'll go the Bray way and turn the rod round(ish) section and tapered. To fit a split big end is quite feasable, but I shall take the "easy" option and try and dummy it.
The marine/wedged small ends, each held by a strap on the double side-rod engine was a bit of a bother - not to be willingly repeated - especially as Tina is about 1/3rd. smaller - the job wouldbe really fiddly.

I shall post more later - got "family stuff" to take care of first.

Best wishes, and thanks for the encouragement

Peter

sbwhart:
Comming along nicely Peter.

Thats also a good looking engine was it made from castings ?.

Stew

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