Author Topic: Tiny CNC router (Read 56294 times)

Rob.Wilson · « **Reply #25 on:** April 18, 2011, 02:54:18 AM »

Quote from: j45on on April 17, 2011, 05:53:41 PM

That make sense

I have noticed that the motors make a "misfire like noise" every so often is this missed steps ?
And the motors make a hell of a noise when stopped would this be the motors or the driver ?

Hi Jason ,,,,,, i had the same thing when setting up my small cnc mill , it did the same if i have the motor speed/ accel rate set to high ,,, try slowing things down a bit .

Rob

j45on · « **Reply #26 on:** April 23, 2011, 06:39:22 AM »

Went out to buy some microswitches/limit switches this morning seemed like a good excuse to take my motorbike out
Until I stalled it trying to do a U turn in the shop car park and fell over

I will fit them when I have calmed down a bit

Those switches will now cost me more than I have spent on the entire project now

kwackers · « **Reply #27 on:** April 23, 2011, 08:45:12 AM »

I feel your pain.

I dropped a brand new (200 miles) ZZR1100 turning left because I stalled it. There was a scrape on the fairing where it had caught the kerb, not much but on a new bike it just stood out (although my missus claimed she couldn't see it!).
In the end I bought a new panel, cost me £200.

Mind you I high-sided my ZX12 at around 10mph with just a bit too much throttle on cold tyres pulling out the top of the road, that cost me the best part of a grand to fix.
I was impressed how far up it managed to throw me, gave me an insight into how trebuchet's work...

j45on · « **Reply #28 on:** April 23, 2011, 03:52:41 PM »

I think I managed to burn a road runner into the bed today

I have a laser pointer in place of the z axis at the moment
Then I broke the Y axis lead screw nut bracket

I had been having trouble with the home switch triggering an e-stop so I turned it off

John Stevenson · « **Reply #29 on:** April 23, 2011, 06:10:08 PM »

Quote from: j45on on April 23, 2011, 03:52:41 PM

I had been having trouble with the home switch triggering an e-stop so I turned it off

Triggering the E-Stop can be a few things, E-Stop, wiring, noise in the circuitry and same for limit switches.

Best bet is to get it up and running , then fit limit switches, remember many machines don't even have them.

In Mach, go to Config > General config and it the top right hand corner change the debounce interval setting from the default 20 or 40 to 100 and then try it.
You can go as high as about 5000 if you are struggling, move in increments of 100 at a time.

John S

j45on · « **Reply #30 on:** April 23, 2011, 07:05:00 PM »

Cheers John

I will have another crack at it tomorow once I have repaired it

I have done a ton of reading tonight and have lots of bookmarks,but it is the simple stuff that stumps me like which way should my axis move

and where should the home position be ?

John Stevenson · « **Reply #31 on:** April 23, 2011, 07:42:09 PM »

For movement it's ALWAYS the tool that moves.
Z is easy +Z is up, -Z is down.

For X when you press the right arrow the bed moves to the left MAKING THE TOOL MOVE THE SAME WAY AS THE ARROW
For Y the down arrow makes the bed go towards the column MAKING THE TOOL MOVE THE SAME WAY AS THE ARROW

Place your hand on the top right of the bed, covering the end and the back. both these directions are X+ and Y+ respectively.
Remember right hand and both are plus moves.

Home when you come to set it is arbitrary. The sensible position for Z is at the top.
Y can be towards the column or towards the operator, X can be right or left and these two are purely personal.

j45on · « **Reply #32 on:** April 24, 2011, 12:15:40 PM »

big thanks John

I feel like i am getting somewhere now,I was close to giving up the other day
This is all I have managed so far as lazy cam would only let me cut quarter of a gear

John Stevenson · « **Reply #33 on:** April 24, 2011, 12:25:48 PM »

Why only 1/4 of a gear?

j45on · « **Reply #34 on:** April 24, 2011, 12:32:36 PM »

it's the demo i guess I put the whole gear dxf into lazy cam and it only posted 49 lines

Imagineering · « **Reply #35 on:** April 24, 2011, 10:03:30 PM »

Hi Jason,

What are you useing as a cutter. You mention a "Laser Pointer", but this one seems to cut????

Murray.

j45on · « **Reply #36 on:** April 25, 2011, 03:16:03 AM »

Sorry Murray that was a bit misleading when I said "cut quarter of a gear"
It will only lightly scorch , I made it some time ago now following this tutorial
http://www.photonlexicon.com/forums/showthread.php/5065-Tutorial-My-Pocket-Pal-Blu-ray-Laser!
I estimate mine to be about 100mw
This guy has some info on using low power laser diodes for CNC
http://www.cooperman.talktalk.net/files/18.htm

I am currently/slowly collecting parts to build one of these http://www.buildlog.net/blog/2011/02/buildlog-net-2-x-laser/
That should cut wood and acrylic up to 1/4" and maybe more

John Stevenson · « **Reply #37 on:** April 25, 2011, 05:29:57 AM »

Jason,
So how will this compare against buying say the LS3020 from HPC laser ? Also what power laser is required to mark steel, like a trade mark?

I know you can buy this spray on gear but it's very expensive, the tape is even worse at £145 a roll.

John S.

j45on · « **Reply #38 on:** April 25, 2011, 06:15:11 AM »

Hi John
The LS3020 has a work area of 12' x 8" and 35W
The buildlog 2.X one has 12" x 20" work area and 40w

I am hoping to build it for around the same price (ish) but you know how budgets go

Then here is the fun of the build itself

and I can spread the build and costs as funds allow
People seem to spend a lot of time modifying these chinese lasers so why not build a good one from scratch

I have also read that the control methods and software for the chinese lasers is a bit crap and people generally convert them to mach3 or use one of these dedicated laser controllers

http://www.lightobject.com/Commerical-DSP-CO2-Laser-Engraving-Cutter-Controller-Support-CorelDraw-AutoCad-P321.aspx?afid=1

http://www.fullspectrumengineering.com/RetinaEngrave.html

I have ordered about 300 quids worth of parts now so there is no turning back,on the down side there is very little for me to make only the air assist nozzle to machine and cut the machine skins ( unless I can get them laser cut locally cheep)

I think you need a shed load of power to mark steel probably hundreds of watts the cermark stuff just melts to the surface I think

j45on · « **Reply #39 on:** April 25, 2011, 09:49:29 AM »

I need to stop playing and go and build a Z axis

John Stevenson · « **Reply #40 on:** April 25, 2011, 10:16:54 AM »

Yup, I think so too

I have just finished this.

And before anyone asks the fan is at the far end blowing into the power supply

John S.

kwackers · « **Reply #41 on:** April 25, 2011, 10:25:06 AM »

What have you done...

I've been admiring the small laser cutters for a while now - I don't need one, but they're just so cool.
Now you've pointed to a site that has a PD version and sells parts!

Out of interest, have you bought any of the parts or kits listed? I wonder if he exports to the U.K...
Now I'm here - any more pointers? I guess I've so many projects one more won't hurt...

j45on · « **Reply #42 on:** April 25, 2011, 10:35:53 AM »

Hi Kwackers
He will post to the UK
I have ordered from him
http://www.buildlog.net/cnc_laser/store/2x_kits_and_parts.php
1x Plastic parts
1x Hardware kit
1x Mechatronics kit
1x Linear bearing system
my bits are on route via USPS he quoted 8 to 10 days

The only bit I will have trouble with is the misumi extrusions as they will only sell to vat registered companies in the uk

I have phoned them and sent a begging email but no luck so far.

j45on · « **Reply #43 on:** April 25, 2011, 10:46:08 AM »

Quote from: John Stevenson on April 25, 2011, 10:16:54 AM

Yup, I think so too

I have just finished this.
And before anyone asks the fan is at the far end blowing into the power supply

John S.

Very profesional John

(makes mine look like a birds nest that fell out of a tree and got run over)
What is it going to control ?

DMIOM · « **Reply #44 on:** April 25, 2011, 11:56:42 AM »

Quote

.......Now I'm here - any more pointers? I guess I've so many projects one more won't hurt...

Now, would that be a laser pointer ????

(p.s to Eric - with all this laser talk, maybe we need another smiley with dark glasses!

)

Quote

The only bit I will have trouble with is the misumi extrusions as they will only sell to vat registered companies in the uk

PM sent

Dave

kwackers · « **Reply #45 on:** April 25, 2011, 12:02:44 PM »

Quote from: j45on on April 25, 2011, 10:35:53 AM

The only bit I will have trouble with is the misumi extrusions as they will only sell to vat registered companies in the uk
I have phoned them and sent a begging email but no luck so far.

Funnily enough - just the end of last week I registered for VAT...

I registered for flat rate so might be a few weeks before the number comes through though. Could be that we put in an order x2....

j45on · « **Reply #46 on:** April 25, 2011, 12:10:46 PM »

Quote from: kwackers on April 25, 2011, 12:02:44 PM

Funnily enough - just the end of last week I registered for VAT...
I registered for flat rate so might be a few weeks before the number comes through though. Could be that we put in an order x2....

That would be handy

j45on · « **Reply #47 on:** April 26, 2011, 12:49:59 PM »

Im have stripped it down to a pile of parts now

So I can build it better

I am confident now that the electronics work and I am getting the hang of mach3

I have ordered some 500mm hardened shaft to replace the 300mm to make it a little larger it already had 500mm lead screws
and I'm on the hunt for some High quality ply wood the b&q stuff it was made from was cr*p

HS93 · « **Reply #48 on:** April 26, 2011, 02:30:27 PM »

MDF is more stable and you can get 3/4" and even 1" thick it is very heavey because it is dense and you need to wear a mask but far better than ply if you look on most of the sites that people build these types of machine on they use MDF .

Peter

John Stevenson · « **Reply #49 on:** April 26, 2011, 02:41:33 PM »

You can also get HDF.

MDF is Medium Density Fibreboard
HDF is High Density Fibreboard.

Try asking at the local kitchen fitting place, they often have offcuts.

John S.

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Author Topic: Tiny CNC router (Read 56294 times)

Rob.Wilson