a new flame eater, just to be different

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madjackghengis:
So John, you just come back with a challenge of another engine to have to look at and consider making a copy, well, if that's your answer, here's mine :lol:

cutting off the end of the con rod shaft stock (the bent end, because this is not an elbow engine)

with the shaft in a spindex, milling the end of the rod flat to go in the gudeon block of the piston

having milled both sides, drilling the gudeon pin hole, a sixteenth of an inch diameter

the big end of the rod will be a two piece design, as in the plans for the poppin', cutting off a piece of bronze for the big end

laying it out for cutting in two

some jobs are just too small for machine work

the two pieces, ready for some machining

both pieces were set up in the vise with a square, I used a three sixteenths end mill to slot the first piece, forgot to take a picture

setting up to machine the second piece to fit the first

starting machining, this will end up a "tongue" to fit in the slot of the other

finishing cut on the first side

finding the second side with a cigarette paper, this side is critical as the fit has to be snug without the solder

second side found, ready to mill

making chips out of bronze

more chips

after measuring, making the final cut

the two pieces slip together just like they were made for each other, then soft soldered, forgot to take a picture oops :headbang:

clamped in the vise, finding the center line

first, one side

then the other, and center up using the DRO

changing to a pointy wiggler end, to find the end of the "tongue"

found, mill zeroed here for the crank pin

center drilled, ready for drilling for reaming

just under reamer size

the reamer set in place

reaming the crank pin hole

and done, now the clamp hole

centering side to side

center drilling

tap drilling for #4-40 bolt

clearance drilling

tapping for the bolt

reducing the width of the block

and the other side

setting up to reduce the length a bit

first cut, vise not quite tight enough, no problem though

taking off the first corner

and taking off the other

sanding off the burrs

chucking in the four jaw, for the rod hole to be drilled and tapped

after drilling, tapping for the rod

ready for the finishing work

filing the corners for radii

and the second corner, too

cleaned up, burrs removed, ready for un-soldering

solder removed, time to clean it up

another view of the parts

the gudeon block for the piston

milling the end, the other is already tapped for the screw to hold it to the piston

milling the other flat

touching off with the slitting saw

slitting for the connecting rod small end, a sixteenth slot

done and ready to install in the piston. That's about it for today, more to come tomorrow. Thanks for watching, cheers, Jack :beer: :poke:

saw:
It's always so intressting to follow your'e work. I lifting my hat for the master. :bow: :bow: :bow:

Stilldrillin:
By 'ek Jack! :bugeye:

I knew you were starting another 'licker. But, you've galloped off without me! Where have I been? :scratch:

It's all looking really good..... :clap: :clap:

Love the big end assembly..... Couldn't work out what you were doing. Until you showed it separated! :thumbup:

Keep on, keeping on..... :D

David D

dbvandy:
watts dis fancy ma-sheene you doin all theis cuttin on? Looks x-pen-sive....

:poke:

Doug

madjackghengis:
Hi Doug, do you mean my Taiwanese mill? It's only expensive if you consider money as an object, I just consider it a means to increasing my tooling. It's only taken forty years to build my shop, I figure by the time I reach middle age, I should have a pretty nice set up. Once I saw the form of big end in the "poppin", I had to make one, and I'm very happy with how it turned out, tight enough to be good bearing, but loose enough to turn freely, and it makes removal of the rod easy, even with the engine fully assembled. The original rod was a piece of eighth inch rod which I flatted on end in the mill, and drilled a wrist pin hole in, and turned down the other end to about .095 and threaded 4-40, but it was a mite bit long, and when I tried to turn off the extra eighth inch, I broke the threads clean off, so I had to start again on the rod.

I didn't have another piece of eighth inch that was straight, but I found a piece of eighth in key stock, and decided I could mill both sides on one end, in the vise and put a gudeon pin hole in it, and then turn down the other end and thread it at the right length.

using an indicator, I centered it in a four jaw, then stoned the tool, as I always do before a new cut.

I grind the cutter, then lap it on a diamond lap, then I stone it between pieces until it needs grinding again, the tangential holder lets it hold a good edge for a lot of work, and is easy to stone off.

this is my tailstock die holder set up, bought from the son of a machinist who has long since passed, a piece of inch hex stock reamed half in through, with one end bored for five eighths dies, and the other for three quarter inch dies, and four grub screws on each end to hold the dies in.

having turned about three eighths of an in down to .095, I threaded it for 4-40, for the right overall length

and here's the finished rod next to the broken one

a little bit of hand work, putting a radius on the little end with a file

and the other side as well, making it look good, even if it can't be seen

and finished, radii and all

having already put the small end in the gudeon block and screwed it into the piston, it takes a bit of finagling to get the pieces of the rod end around the crankpin without dropping them, and they need to stay oriented right. I put a small rubber o-ring on each side of the main shaft, for the ball bearings to butt up against, and centered the crank assembly between the pillars before adding the rod and piston assembly. The rod is locked into the big end with a lock nut, setting minimal clearance on the head end

a bit of a side view of the engine with the rod assembly in place, the square rod being rather easy to align the gudeon pin with the crank pin, and easy to hold while tightening up the lock nut.

I wasn't sure what I was doing with the head when I made it, so it is thick, and needs to be a lot thinner, so the flycutter, at slightly slower speed is used to cut it down to size.

I'd already drilled the head bolt holes, but they don't interfere with reducing the thickness

with the head down to size, its time to counterbore the holes so the bolts are below the surface

finishing up the counter boring

and the finished head, next to the engine.

I've decided what to do for valving, and will be posting that next probably, and then maybe a test run. Cheers, :beer: :nrocks: Jack

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