Take the "float" out of the cross slide??

Gallery, Projects and General > How do I??

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BK:
Fixed :) Mine also has a slot, on the top, I nipped that up a couple of times and tried it, third time lucky, no more endplay. :clap: :clap:
Thanks for the input, now, I wonder if the compound is the same, it's off so I'll check it too. :thumbup: :thumbup:

Davo J:
I think you will find the compound one is just a round bronze post with a thread in it. A friend of mine bought a Taiwanese lathe from Hare and Forbes and it come with a load of back lash in the compound. He said he squashed the nut in the vise and that fixed it. I am not sure which way and haven't had to adjust mine yet.

Dave

BK:
You are spot on Dave, it's just a brass block affair in the compound no adjustment, it dosn't need adjusting but while it was off was a good time to check.
Here's the one on the cross slide.

I might try parting steel now, it always grabbed and broke blades, OK on brass.
Thanks again.

Andrew_D:
So what did the old-timers know that we don't??? The reason I ask is my old McDougall just uses a bronze/brass/??? block with a threaded hole in it. This is a WWII-era 20" lathe. The block for both the cross-slide and compound is about 1.5"-2" long, the shaft is about 5/8" diameter, 0.200" per turn. (rant on - There are times I'd like to punch the guy that decided on 5 tpi...hard to turn the compound smoothly and get a nice finish - rant off.) The compound has 0.005"-0.006" of backlash, cross-slide has about the same. Obviously it has worked for these older lathes....

Different grade of material to make the nut?
Threaded hole slightly undersize?

Obviously they knew something back then.....

Andrew

lordedmond:
Better brass in them days

Ive got some at the moment pedigree unsure ,but it turns like EN1A the chips come off in spirals and hot they change colour to dark straw , HSS turns its nose up so I have resorted to carbide ( for brass :doh:)

but the finish is very good

Stuart

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