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Carving knives

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Powder Keg:
My last couple projects have involved that brown stuff. And the need to work it. I've been leaning to the use of hand tools and older things here lately. Mainly I just want to try something new. I'd thought of buying a set of carving knives, But what would the fun be in that? I had some old bandsaw blades. I drew a few shapes out and cut them out with an angle grinder. The wood was scraps from other projects. There is some curly maple that a friend gave me. A piece of African Blood wood. And a scrap of walnut from my shot gun project.  I'm going to rivet the scales to the blades with some copper rivets. They are made from some electrical wire left over from out hot tub. Here is what I have so far. I'm starting to file the scales to shape.

They will all have a single angle grind. The longer two will be a left and a right.





I'm trying to get these done soon. I think I broke every little drill bit I own trying to drill out these saw blades. But I got them\o/

fluxcored:
Very nice.

Can you please post a few pics of the riveting process, if you do'nt mind.

Silly idea but I've got to ask  - would drilling with a masonry bit not generate enough heat to anneal the spot so that it's easier to drill with a metal twist drill afterwards??

Powder Keg:
I'll do it. I think I need to make a couple of rivet punches. I''ll take good pictures of that also.

fluxcored:
Thx. Looking forward to it.

Lew_Merrick_PE:
Keg -- Just an idea for you.  I got into making "unit knives" for various military units a few years back.  You can see the civilian versions of some them at http://www.mccannindustries.com/knives.htm.  In any case, we found that making a threaded insert that was a close slip fit to a reamed hole in the blade allowed us the greatest flexibility in overall design and field cleaning/sharpening.  We would then attach the grips using (as appropriate) either small socket head cap screws or flat head socket cap screws to allow for adjustment and removal of the grips.  The "inside" faces of the grips themselves would be counterdrilled (reamed) to be a close slip fit to the threaded (round stand-off type) insert.

We had the advantage of working with normalized stock and heat treating after all the machining was done.  However, I think I have seen in other of your posts that you have stick welding equipment.  It should not be all that hard to jury up a local spot annealing rig to localize such work.

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