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Harold Hall's precision grinding table
Bernd:
--- Quote from: xo18thfa on May 26, 2011, 10:50:47 PM ---
Hi Bernd: Converted to nearest inch size. Don't recall running into any complications.
Bob
--- End quote ---
I figured as much but wanted to make sure. I've studied the book quite intently and thought the same as far as the dimensions.
I'm going to see if I can fit the first two projects into my project list, the boring tool and indexer.
Again thanks for inspiration.
That grinding table looks great. :bow: :bow: :thumbup:
Bernd
wongster:
Hi Bob,
I'm planning to make the simple version of the grinding table shown on the book on grinding and sharpening. You think it will work the same if I choose to use aluminium instead of steel?
Regards,
Wong
Anzaniste:
Wong,
I am in the middle of making one. Aluminium would work but not very well it would wear out soon. The dovetail slides would not be very good in aluminum as aluminum/aluminum is not a good bearing combination.
wongster:
Thanks for your reply, Anzaniste.
If I use brass for the dovetails, would it work?
There is a capscrew at the end of the fence (not the one locking the fence down from upright position). Do you know its function? Doesn't seem to be holding or pressing against anything.
Regards,
Wong
xo18thfa:
Hi Wong. Go with steel for the table top. The attachments sliding around will wear out aluminum quickly, and make a lot of friction as it scratches up. There is no tricky machine work on the table top. I think brass dovetails will work. Brass is easier to machine. My mill/drill chattered some when cutting them in steel. The angle bracket at the bottom could be steel too, or extra heavy thick aluminum. That part needs to be very rigid. Aluminum for the rest should work out. Mr Hall's plans are metric, if you are using inch, round up all the material thicknesses to make the table a bit more "beefy" A little extra stout will help.
I use the grinding table a lot. It is a really big help.
Bob
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