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Workbench, height, timber size etc

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marky123:
Hello
I'm making an angle iron stand for a minimill
Shall I build it so I can bolt a couple of 2' paving slabs under the top to 'absorb vibration' or is that a load of pony?
Cheers.
MARK
 :proj:

marfaguy:
 Suppose it's a bit late now but way back when I remember reading about workbench design ( for woodworking)  
the author's advise for workbench height  was to stand up straight ( don't slouch) but relaxed, then with arms relaxed
turn your hands so your palms are more or less parallel to the floor. Have somebody measure the distance from the
floor to your palms. Make the workbench this height. My height was/is 32". I always built my work surfaces to that
height and it felt comfortable. I changed it a bit though for my roll around where my lathe and mill are currently mounted.
I've got an arthritic left hip so I knew I wouldn't be able to comfortably stay standing for long periods of time like I did when
I did cabinetry professionally. So after looking around at some office type chairs I opted to raise the height about 3".
Seems to work pretty well with my Micro mark mini mill and 7x16" lathe. Working while standing is OK and sitting in the
office chair as high as it will go is still fairly comfortable and lets me see/ work everything I need to.

 I thought about going the other way, i.e. going with a desk type height ( usually about 25"-27") or possibly lower
then try and work almost exclusively while seated but I think that would cause more scrunching over/ while standing
thereby stressing the lower back. And I think you'd be constantly standing up to change end mills/collets or work the z axis.

edited to clean up some grammar.

marfaguy:

--- Quote from: marky123 on March 21, 2011, 06:24:39 PM ---Hello
I'm making an angle iron stand for a minimill
Shall I build it so I can bolt a couple of 2' paving slabs under the top to 'absorb vibration' or is that a load of pony?
Cheers.
MARK
 :proj:

--- End quote ---
Hi Mark,
I doubt adding weight would make much difference. Having the surface very flat is probably more important and or bolting it down. Although
I've currently got mine bolted down to a roll around cart. I'm probably going to change that though.

You may want to start a new thread since posting to this one may not get as many eyes on your question.

marky123:
Hiya
I've started anyway.I've measured the top wrong of course,I didnt allow for the thickness of the angle so the uprights will have to weld to the outside of the top but I will weld the bottom crossmembers with enough space to drop a couple of slabs in.A friend and I picked the miller up today,we just managed to get it in the garage and on the workbench with the wheelbarrow and some planks.phew...

Gazz292:
Well, my garage to workshop project has stalled for a bit,
i've got one bit of worktop screwed to the frame, me bench grinder bolted down at the end, and a load of woodworking tools dumped on the rest of the bench,

i got the money to buy the next batch of 2x4's, have fitted the towbar to the smart and have the trailer here, i just need to find a radial tuit.

However i decided to beging getting the motorhome out of hibernation, filled the water tank up, turned on the pump, and out splurts water from the top of the calorifier (20 litre hot water cylinder, heated by the engine as we drive, eberspacher of electric)

thought it was the immersion heater seal, but nope, water was coming out 5 cracks in the solder ring... and upon taking the calorifier out, i found the insulation split and held appart by an inch  :bang:

Figured out whats happened, i drain the system down every november, i start at the calorifier, turning the pressure relief valve till is stays open, then i go round opening the taps, get the airline adaptor, blow the pipes through.

i found the knob of the valve had parted from the shaft (turning it causes the knob to ride up a wedge, which pulls on the shaft connected to the valve seat, you have to do that occasionaly to dislodge any limescale that gets trapped in the valve causing it to weap)


anyhoo, i rekon the knob came off the shaft as soon as i turned around from setting it to open, and thus the calorifier was practicaly full of water over winter, and she froze and expanded a bit,

the main seams solder joints are cracked, and apparantly it's silver solder, the company that made it for me said they can't repair it, as it will never get certified again, as it's classed as a pressure vessle, only 3 to 4 bar, but the water in it is upto 95 degrees C, and is seperated from my head when in bed by a bit of 12mm ply, so i dont want to risk a repair even if i could.

So the bank of mum and dad has extended my borrowing again, and a new calorifier tank is on order, will take 3 weeks as it's a special order (tank is vertical, most are horizontal to go under a bed, has 2 heating coils, this size usually only has one and so on)

And whilst checking the rest of the water pipes, i discovered the shower wall liner had parted from the tray, i had a feeling it would, your supposed to use some MEK based stuff with a filler in it to weld the 2 together, but when i got them (last year, to replace a cracked tray) i was told mek had just been made illegal, so they couldent sell me any of the stuff,
looking at heat welding it now, but not 100% sure hwat plastic it is, so even that isnt going to be an easy task.

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