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i'll soon be making swarf

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dbvandy:
One of the first and best mods you can make is a cam lock for the tail stock.  I did mine right away and the hour I spent on it has saved me days.  If you keep this lathe adjusted and clean it will hold .0005 all day long.

This is an example of what I have done with mine:

http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=4425.0

http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=4413.0

you need to go ahead an buy some spares:

the transmission gears are plastic...  they will get broken
timing belt and two plastic drive cogs

Have fun and pay attention.

Doug

Gazz292:
tailstock is the latest version with a camlock, i thought it was the older version before i got the lathe, as the photo's on ebay didnt show the tailstock, and i could see a nut thinking that was to tighten it to the ways,

i think it's the 25 tooth pinion i've broken, and arc are out of them till end of april, typical,
anyone know of a place to get steel versions of these gears, i have found steel change gears, and the main headstock gears, but not the tumble reverser gears or the one on the back of the headstock.

andyf:

--- Quote from: gazz on February 27, 2011, 04:42:39 PM ---.....i think it's the 25 tooth pinion i've broken, and arc are out of them till end of april, typical,
anyone know of a place to get steel versions of these gears, i have found steel change gears, and the main headstock gears, but not the tumble reverser gears or the one on the back of the headstock.

--- End quote ---

 
It may be a good idea to leave a plastic gear in the train, to act as a mechanical fuse in case of a jam. The best place for one is on the leadscrew, where torque is at its highest. That being so, it's odd that you broke a tumbler gear.

But it's your lucky day! I have a 25T tumbler gear (plastic) left over from a project, and you are welcome to it. Send me a PM with your address. It is for a Sieg C3, but I'm sure it will fit your RB.

Andy.

dbvandy:
Good thing about the cam lock.  I love the mod I did to mine, well worth it.  www.littlemachineshop.com has EVERY part for that lathe and a ton of other items.  They are in California, so shipping might get you a bit, but it is better than not having it.  They also have face plates, chucks, and tooling, so you can spend all of your allowance there pretty fast.

What a lot of people are doing and I might do as well it have a metal big gear on the spindle and a plastic small gear on the input shaft in the transmission.  that way you still have the weak fuse n the gears, but the input shaft is MUCH easier to change.  And another thing is it will run quieter.

The next weakest link is the large drive toothed pulley.  If you have a severe jam, it will shatter and not damage anything.  Mine was weakened from the removal when I replaced the transmission gears and finally broke in half during a plung cut (it did not feel like I was overloading it).  I ordered a new one from LMS, but had some 6160 stock about the same size and made one so I could continue working. 

Also, just in case you have not been there: http://www.mini-lathe.com/ has mods and suggestions and tons of cool ideas.  well worth a look!

Happy swarfing!

Doug

foozer:
Like mentioned, you'll want to keep a weak link in place. Commercial laundry dryers all the pulley to chain drive gear reduction utilise a plastic gear in the final step down (driver). Anything that may cause the drum to jam with cause plastic gear failure. Better to replace a 5 buck gear than the 300 buck motor.

Robert

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