Jan Ridders Otto 4 stroke build

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Rob.Wilson:
Hi Doug :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:

Your sure doing a fine job of building the engine :thumbup:

Rob

madjackghengis:
Hi Doug, nice job, coming right along, I guess I'd better get some skate bearings, they look cheaper than ordering them from a catalog. I will be doing a build soon, so you're getting me ready for it. I hope to follow you in using the metric numbers for most things, and converting only screws and such things as won't translate well in my shop to metric. Looking good :headbang: :poke: mad jack

dbvandy:
yea, I like using 6-32 stainless socket heads. They are strong enough to hold things together and small enough to fit into most tight spaces.

I am at a cross roads now whether or not to move the center support over to give me more room for my massive head cooling fins and maybe a belt driven fan or to leave them "stock" and just grind off a few thou of the fins to fit the uprights.

I have already made the spacers between them and don't feel like making them again and moving the center support lessens my options for ignition.

It is a great engine to build and will look super when it is running and prettyfied....

Pics in the morning...

madjackghengis:
Hi Doug, just remember, if you leave the fins close enough to just touch, they will help bleed off heat into the structure, and be beneficial that way. I don't know if you've run across this or not, but those stainless allen bolts are not rated for strength, normally, unless they specifically state the standard, and generally have a grade two strength. I use them a lot because stainless is a poor heat conductor, but any bolt for strength ought to be a rated bolt or screw, black finished allens are generally grade eight or nine unless otherwise specified. I broke a #4-40 stainless head bolt on my oddball flame sucker, just unscrewing it, and had only used the short end of the wrench to tighten it, initially. I'm really looking forward to your success, as it will define my own direction to some degree. Glad to see a fine job going forward. :poke: jack

dbvandy:

--- Quote from: madjackghengis on February 21, 2011, 09:43:19 AM ---Hi Doug, just remember, if you leave the fins close enough to just touch, they will help bleed off heat into the structure, and be beneficial that way. I don't know if you've run across this or not, but those stainless allen bolts are not rated for strength, normally, unless they specifically state the standard, and generally have a grade two strength. I use them a lot because stainless is a poor heat conductor, but any bolt for strength ought to be a rated bolt or screw, black finished allens are generally grade eight or nine unless otherwise specified. I broke a #4-40 stainless head bolt on my oddball flame sucker, just unscrewing it, and had only used the short end of the wrench to tighten it, initially. I'm really looking forward to your success, as it will define my own direction to some degree. Glad to see a fine job going forward. :poke: jack

--- End quote ---

according to the mfg. these bolts are grade 3, so that should be far more than enough to hold these engines together. And most of the loads are not shear anyway, so they will be more than more enough... The Webster called for 4-40's and some 2-56's... I used the 4-40's on the intake block, but had enough meat to use the 6-32's everywhere else. I did use 1/4-20s in a few places like the flywheel and tank mount.

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