The Shop > Finishing
Tumbler Trials & Tribulations
foozer:
Like it. Agree it seems to be what works for the person yet shared info does narrow down the choices. Like that barrel, Can see having a couple, three units each dedicated to a step process.
Post your trials, more the better
Robert
snub:
More add ons:
If the shot is not stainless steel it will rust immediately in water, making a mess of your work. You can use it but you have to clean it often. It's just better to go with stainless.
The little barrel I bought has a capacity of 3 pounds of shot.
Regarding this small barrel, Rio Grande says:
Add 3# metal shot.
Add your workpieces 4 parts media to 1 part workpiece by volume.
Add compound solution to the barrel until solution is 1/2" above the level of the media.
Tumble.
picclock:
Hi Snub
That hexagonal tumbler looks good. What stops the tumbler sides from abrading and becoming opaque ?. I have a 4x6" drum which is rubber lined presumably to prevent this problem.
Very impressive results on the parts. How long did you tumble and at what speed ?
Thanks for sharing
picclock
1hand:
This is great guys keep it coming. :ddb:
I did some more searching last night on burnishing compounds. Lot of guys using Dawn dish soap. Some say no difference, some say there is a better shine using a regular burnishing compound. I ordered the 5/32" SS shot and some of the the dry compound to try.
920 Powder Compound
Item Number: 339008
Use for sterling silver, gold, brass, copper, zinc and aluminum. • Helps inhibit rust on carbon steel shot. • Mix three ounces of powder with one gallon of water. • Compatible media: carbon or stainless steel and porcelain
I found some cheaper SS Pins on ebay also. 1/8" x 1"
Matt
foozer:
--- Quote from: Da_Kengineer_Meister on February 07, 2011, 07:29:59 AM ---
While we are on tumbling and surface finishes... One of the best things you can do is start with a good finish so that all of the processing steps that follow only improve on a good thing. Yeah, probably didn't need to state that for this group here, it kind of falls into the 'well ... duh' bin. Anywho, thought I'd share, one of those great steps for aluminium that I almost never remember until I'm actually at the machine is to pick up a piece of scotch brite.
--- End quote ---
Scotch brite does works well, quick swipe or four and a lot of the minor tool marks are gone. And yes it needs to be stressed that the end product is only as good as what is started with. A piece with tool marks to start will be a piece with nice and shiny tool marks at end.
So far at least for me
Shot: Preferably Stainless, works well to debur. This operation of course can be done with a file, sandpaper, yet for small pieces its hard to keep it from becoming too rounded over. Couple hours in a dry tumble with shot and the edges are crisp and clean yet you'd have to work hard to cut something with it.
Grit: Forget it, although it will remove minor tool marks and leave a semi finish (500 grit) it is just to darn messy for repeatable. Its bad enough to have that chip trail following me around, no need to compound it with black grit.
Media and Part load: Follow the chosen media's manufactures suggestion, at least start with it. Banking on their testing history which developed the process.
Media tool mark removal: unknown for me at this time
Media Finish: Limited only by the depth of ones pocket. I for one am going the walnut shell with compound mix. From what I have seen it should do the job for my usage.
Robert
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