The Shop > Finishing
Anodizing
Brass_Machine:
What do you recommend for a power supply?
raynerd:
--- Quote from: kwackers on January 25, 2011, 12:41:44 PM ---
--- Quote from: andyf on January 25, 2011, 12:40:09 PM ---Chris, do the organic dyes tend to come from school store cupboards, or are they commonly available?
Andy
--- End quote ---
Hit him Chris - he's calling you a thief!
FIGHT! FIGHT! FIGHT!
:hammer:
--- End quote ---
:lol: - AndyF --> :hammer:
Errrr, errrr ...
no only joking - I did try some azo dyes which I made (so no not available) but the best I found was the blue is it Dylon blue? I got a packet from Wilkinsons for next to nothing and it binds just fine. I then heat sealed it. I tried a food dye and that was rubbish.
Regarding using deionised water - this is pretty much an electrolysis setup and so if you have any minerals dissolved in the water they could potentially be deposited on your metal work surface causing the oxidation of the ally layer not to form properly / not bind properly. You`ll end up with areas that have not anodised correctly. Does anyone know the difference between deionised and water produced via reverse osmosis ? I don`t know the difference there and would like to...
Chris
andyf:
--- Quote from: craynerd on January 25, 2011, 05:11:08 PM ---
--- Quote from: kwackers on January 25, 2011, 12:41:44 PM ---Hit him Chris - he's calling you a thief!
FIGHT! FIGHT! FIGHT!
:hammer:
--- End quote ---
:lol: - AndyF --> :hammer:
Errrr, errrr ...
no only joking - I did try some azo dyes which I made (so no not available) but the best I found was the blue is it Dylon blue? I got a packet from Wilkinsons for next to nothing and it binds just fine. I then heat sealed it. I tried a food dye and that was rubbish.
Regarding using deionised water - this is pretty much an electrolysis setup and so if you have any minerals dissolved in the water they could potentially be deposited on your metal work surface causing the oxidation of the ally layer not to form properly / not bind properly. You`ll end up with areas that have not anodised correctly. Does anyone know the difference between deionised and water produced via reverse osmosis ? I don`t know the difference there and would like to...
Chris
--- End quote ---
Thank goodness! I can stop eating this bloody spinach :lol:
Dunno about de-ionised water, Chris. I just used very second-hand battery acid diluted with corporation pop straight from the kitchen tap. Coming from the Lake District, it was very soft but there were probably lots of other ions swimming around in it.
I've found a dial I anodised,and it didn't come out too badly:
To forestall criticism, I know the marks aren't very evenly spaced; should have hung a bigger weight from the lathe chuck to take up the backlash in the geartrain needed to give 84 divisions (don't ask what for!).
Dylon was the fabric dye I experimented with, but it didn't come out patchy; it just didn't really "take" at all.
Andy
DeereGuy:
No...I only use it in the dye and sealer mix.
Here is the one I got...It will adjust for temperature but only to to 140 degrees...so you need to make sure you check your sealer before it gets to hot.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230419320028&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
The PH on the dye I have has a pretty wide range...4.2 to 6.0...the sealer is 5.7.5.8. I adjust with distilled white vinegar or baking soda...
DeereGuy:
--- Quote from: Brass_Machine on January 25, 2011, 12:59:38 PM ---What do you recommend for a power supply?
--- End quote ---
Eric, I bought mine from Power Supplies Wearhouse on ebay.
This is the one I bought in December:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200461533838&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT
I will probably step up to this one the end of February
http://cgi.ebay.com/MASTECH-HY3020D-LINEAR-DC-POWER-SUPPLY-0-30-V-0-20-/140499212575?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20b667d91f
Both are linear PS units. I make sure mine is never where the fumes from the anodizing can get to it and I have a diode in line to make sure current never reverses in the tank for some reason.
Once we figure out the weted surface area of you largest parts we can figure out how big a supply you need.
Edited to point to the correct PS I am thinking about going to....thanks Kenneth...the switching Power Supplies don't seem to be holding up well for anodizing or plating...I didn't pay attention to the part number and linked to a switching one...
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version