Gallery, Projects and General > How do I??
drill a 1/2 hole in 1" material
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krymis:
well as it says i have to drill a 1" x 15" solid stock with a 1/2-13 threaded hole 1.5-2" deep in one end.  Here is my thought:
remove the compund slide from the carriage and replace that with a 5-C collet block on the carriage.  mount the 1" stock in this.  Then mount an er collet in the er collet chuck.  Then mount a center drill, drill, endmill, and starter tap and bottom tap to do the drilling and tapping.  then use the carriage movement to make it the depth i need.


does this sound like a plan or am i flawed in my thought and design?
Lew_Merrick_PE:
Krymis,

I assume that your stock is actually ø1 X 15 inch stock.  You need to drill and tap 1/2-13 (UNC) holes in the end threaded to a depth of 1.5 to 2 inches.  You need to do this on your lathe.  Is that a proper summary of your problem?

1) I assume that the headstock of your lathe has a pass-through less than ø1 inch.  Otherwise, the problem would be trivial.

2) The only "issue" I see with mounting the bar on your cross-slide is supporting it over length to maintain whatever alignment is required for your tapped holes.  Mounting it in a 5C collet should be fine -- as would mounting it in a v-block -- so long as you have enough clamping area and force to maintain alignment.

3) I assume that this is some kind of adjusting mechanism.  A standard hex nut for a 1/2 bolt is .345 nominal thickness.  A heavy hex nut for a Grade 8 1/2 bolt is .480 nominal thickness.  If I need to project alignment using a 1/2 thread, I need 1-1/2 to 2 diameters (i.e. .750 to 1.000) of engagement to assure such an alignment.  A hole 3-4 diameters of engagement should only be used to provide adjustment.  If this is not the case, you can save yourself some pain in manufacture.

There is a document on Pilot Hole Considerations posted at http://www.scribd.com/Lew%20Merrick that may be of interest to you.
mike os:
3 jaw, fixed steady & use the tailstock to drill/tap
kvom:
If your lathe doesn't have a spindle lock (or someway to lock it), tapping 1/2-13 with only one hand to turn the tap wrench needs a lot of strength, even in aluminum.  If you can get the tap started straight, it will be easier to tap with a bench vise where you can use 2 hands.
No1_sonuk:
If the stock will pass through the lathe spindle, the thread could be done single-point.  I have an indexable threading tool which I know will do M13 x 1mm.  It was a bit tight, but it did it.  1/2 13 isn't far off that major dia, but the depth would be deeper. A "normal" ground internal threading tool could probably manage.

However, as the OP is discussing mounting on the carriage, I would assume he has something like a 7 x 12 which has 20mm pass-through, and a relativley short bed.
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