Gallery, Projects and General > How to's
Square Bolts
Jasonb:
Chamfered top nuts will look better as I said at the start of this thread. I have just picked up 6m of small square stainless for a friend so he can make all the nuts & bolts for his 7 1/4g locomotion. This is the look to aim for though the polished brass is too blingy for my likeing and they are a bit large.
J
Bogstandard:
To me the ones shown look totally false and too blingyfied. Artistic licence I suppose.
When I used to study old engines, they were just a flat plate with the top and bottom of the corners chamfered to stop them digging in, with a hole thru them. The only time I saw any that were like the ones shown were when they were used mainly for decoration. A lot of the time they weren't even square, but sort of parallelogram shaped. They were just cut from strip metal, most probably with a cold chisel.
It wasn't until Joey Whitworth came along in the 1840's and standardised screw threading did you get any sort of semblance of a standard and things were made to all look and act the same. Before that, they were usually being hand made, with the nut being made to fit the thread on the bolt, individually, and so things didn't look so regimented.
I personally reckon Gerhards model would have been from that 'hand made' sort of era, not the regimented way the later Victorians did it.
If you are still having trouble Gerhard, email me a sketch with the dimensions you require, and what material you want them out of, and I can easily knock out a few dozen flat plate nuts for you. I have all the correct holding gear to cater with square section. But you will need to do all the deburring yourself, they will just be parted off at the correct thickness you will most probably have to run a tap thru them again as well, just to clean up the threads after parting off.
Bogs
Gerhard Olivier:
Hi All
Back home again so can start again
Bogs - thanks for the kind offer but I would like to at least try to make them myself.
My plan is to take 8mm Brass rod in the ER32 collet and drill and thread on the lathe - then in the spindex still Er32 collet mill 4 sides flat on the mill.
Then back to lathe and part off. If I do 4 in 1 go it should be stiff enough to part off and wont take that long????
That should work OR am I missing somthing??????
Gerhard
Jasonb:
That should work fine.
What I often do with things like this is work both ends of the bar at once or even both ends of two pieces, saves having to go back and forth quite so often, so you would be working in batches of 8, 16 etc.
A thin parting tool is useful for jobs like this as there is less waste.
J
Gerhard Olivier:
Everybody thanks for the help
Don them as descibed above - used 3 pieces double ended as Jason sugested
Worked a treat - didnot even take very long.
Thanks again
Gerhard
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