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Webster IC Engine build log.
raynerd:
I keep dreaming of that noise :dremel: thanks for your replies stew and mad jack
My thrust bearing arrived today. I admit I've never seen one before. There seems to be no way of clamping it to the shaft so I did some googling. Am I right in thinking that it isn't clamped to the shaft but actually tightens on the shaft when the locking mechanism kicks in. This would then link to your comment, Doug, of the shaft needing to be hardened. I purchased my one way bearing from a model shop and it has no dimensions on it. I'll experiment tonight but can anyone tell me, do I just turn the shaft diameter so the bearing just slides on? If this is the case I can imagine tolerances would be high or the bearing will slip?
dbvandy:
--- Quote from: craynerd on May 06, 2011, 12:55:38 PM ---I keep dreaming of that noise :dremel: thanks for your replies stew and mad jack
My thrust bearing arrived today. I admit I've never seen one before. There seems to be no way of clamping it to the shaft so I did some googling. Am I right in thinking that it isn't clamped to the shaft but actually tightens on the shaft when the locking mechanism kicks in. This would then link to your comment, Doug, of the shaft needing to be hardened. I purchased my one way bearing from a model shop and it has no dimensions on it. I'll experiment tonight but can anyone tell me, do I just turn the shaft diameter so the bearing just slides on? If this is the case I can imagine tolerances would be high or the bearing will slip?
--- End quote ---
Most likely it is going to be 6mm and have a 12mm nut on it. You can use a socket in you drill to drive it. I cut a little slot in the shaft and put an e clip on it to hold the bearing on. You are correct... the tolerances have to be dead on or it won't grab.
Can you do the same thing with the crank shaft that you did with the flywheel and drill and tap a hole between the shaft and the counter balance journal?
OR drill a hole and pin it?
Keep it up!
Doug
raynerd:
Doug, it was just as you said. I turned a little test bar end down to 6mm and put the little bearing on. What an clever little gadget - I`d like to know how it works. Totally lets it free wheel in one direction but seems to clamp down on the bar and lock it in the other direction!!!
I think some things happen for a reason. With the crank shaft come away from the actual crank end, it was an ideal opportunity to turn about 10mm of the overhang I had purposely put on the crank for the reason, down to 6mm dia. I`ve also moved the sensor position to the other side as for some silly reason I`d put the sensor at the end of the crank shaft, now I`ve moved it to nearer the outer frame which looks better and is out of the way. Another silly thing I`d done was to have the magnet of the sensor on the same pull chord V pully. This meant that when pull starting it, I noticed I was actually moving the magnet a little and would have been throwing the timing out. So actually, I think this little modification has improved the design!
7:55am, I`m sat watching Peppa Pig with my daughter waiting for the postman to arrive with Silver Solder - then it`ll be "mummys" turn to get out of bed while I escape with a blow torch! :dremel: :dremel:
Bluechip:
Chris
One-way bearing ??? They're probably roller clutches. Quite common when I worked on printers etc.
ARC do 'em, amongst others.
http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Bearings/Needle-Roller-Clutches
Dave BC
lordedmond:
I use the ARC ones instead of ratchets on my lubricators ( loco ) as they are scale wakefield ones they are tiny ( not as small as the minnie one Stew ) use two one on the body and one in the arm
one point the have a plastic of some kind to support the rollers and they can melt if abused
Stuart
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