Gallery, Projects and General > Project Logs
Webster IC Engine build log.
raynerd:
Thanks again for your comments chaps. Time for a few more questions. I think I spoke a little early in my last post regarding the electronic ignition. I`ve just got it all out and taken some pictures and now I definately have a few questions.
So this is what is in the packet - no instructions!
You can see a much bigger image here: http://raynerd.co.uk/wp-content/upLoads/copysensor1.JPG although to be honest, the quality is still poor!
So for a start the unit says working voltage 4.8 - 6V so I presume I could use a 4 AA battery holder for a 6V output? This will obviously connect to the red and black lead from the ignition unit.
So the other thing I can see is of course the little sensor. There is also a little black plastic holder. Now I`m going to look an idiot here but is this a holder for the sensor? I don`t know if I`d want to use this, I think I`d quite like just a little brass tube which the sensor sticks out of the top, but for now is this at least what the black plastic holder is for?
So the ignition module comes with some things for the alternative spark plug shown in the first image. Removing these, I`m left with the following components of which I haven`t a clue what any are for!
Any idea what any of these are for?
So far I can`t see a magnet to trigger the sensor - do I just need a standard neobidium magnet?
0.5mm or a bit small: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/50-tiny-neodymium-disk-magnets-2-x-0-5-mm-magic-craft-/130471479669?pt=UK_Collectables_MagicTricks_RL&hash=item1e60b4c975
or perhaps 1mm http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/100-Neodymium-round-disc-magnets-1-x-1-mm-magic-craft-/130471479278?pt=UK_Collectables_MagicTricks_RL&hash=item1e60b4c7ee
As far as I understand, when a magnet is flashed past the sensor the plug will spark. I can guess how to test the system, but could someone clarify this for me? Is it as simple as hooking it all up, getting a good earth on the plug and literally holding and magnet and moving it past the sensor ? :scratch:
Also how near does the magnet need to run past the sensor?
Sorry, lots of questions... I didn`t actually think I read instructions but without them, on this one I`m lost!
raynerd:
Well I got no replies and I was in the mood to have a bash this evening and I`m chuffed. The ignition system sparks the plug :ddb: :ddb: :ddb:
I did just what I had outlined above, moved a magnet (the base of a DTI stand!) over the senser and :zap:
Next job is to get it mounted.
madjackghengis:
Hi Chris, I don't know anything about that particular ignition, but most hall effect sensors want one or the other end of the magnet to trigger it. You might want to check since your magnetic indicator holder has both poles. Good to hear you got sparks already :ddb: :lol: Looking good :headbang: :beer: Cheers, Jack
raynerd:
Hi Madjack, as always, thanks for your reply. I`ve got a little further with the engine, infact I have made the magnet holder which connects to the crank. I also ordered some 3mm magnets yesterday which arrived today so I put it all together for a quick test. The video isn`t great, but I`m pleased that it is sparking!! :headbang: The sensor is just strapped to that steel bar for a temporary fix, it is going to be held through a brass tube or similar.
I also started work on Jan Ridders vapour carb. I couldn`t find any brass tube at a decent price and when I went to my local scrappy yesterday, I picked up the solid bar end for less than I would have paid for a length of tube.
Since I don`t have any silver solder (will pick some up at the Harrogate Show), I wanted to keep any soldering to a minimum. Rather than bore a tube and then cap it, I figured I may as well leave one end solid. Here it is part way through machining.
Jan suggests 45mm inside diameter, the only glass disc I could get my hands on was 50mm!
And then finally machined down some more and also the recess made for the glass disk - the glass disk which is the fuel tank viewing window is actually in position in the photo, so looks good and a nice fit! I`m a bit worried about sticking it in place and getting a good seal!
I have left it in the state of the last picture. I need to sleep on the next step and would appreciate any advice. I would quite like to machine a larger diameter at the ends, a bit like if I had capped it and had an overhang on the cap. The only way I can see I can do this is if I use some sort of stub mandrel and taper it to go into the bore, then machine the outer diameter all from that. It just seems a large bore to attempt this with.
The other thought is with holding it, i.e a base or stand for the tank. Does anyone know if there is any sort of height restriction, I guess the fuel level should be lower than the cylinder bottom or does it really not matter? I could make two little stands to sit it on like Jan or I was thinking about soldering a bar into the bottom of the tank, tapping the bottom of the bar and then screwing it down from under the base.
The third option was with so much material, to mill a flat on the bottom of the tank and just sit it on the base!! Seems a shame removing so much brass (£££££ :doh:) but then I think it looks a bit large when sat next to my model, especially with my small ally base.
Hummm, any thoughts?
EDIT:
and I`ve been thinking about fuel for a while now and was going to get some colemans but after the discussion today by John-som I ended up trying to find some Aspen 2T alkylate petrol ready-mixed (2%)
http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=4838.msg53742#new
My dad actually said he has some colemans so I can try both without spending any more. Only problem is, I couldnt get a small bottle!!!
So if anyone is at Harrogate on the Saturday and fancies trying a few litres for a couple of quid let me know as I expect I`ll not go through this bottle dispite its apparent 25 year shelf life.
NickG:
Well done Chris, it's looking great and sparking! What's the compression like with the valves in place? Sounds like it's nearly ready! :thumbup: :bow:
Did you go with 4 AA's in the end? The only thing you might find is that they don't last that long, but you could just use some C batteries instead in that case.
Not heard of that fuel before. All looking promising, glad you went for the vapour carb, they seem so fuss free from every build log I've read. Are you doing the latest version? I think the valve was simplified, I think Chuck discovered a simpler way on his Henry Ford engine.
Nick
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