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Webster IC Engine build log.
NickG:
Nice 1 Chris, looks really good quality.
Nick
raynerd:
:( :( :( :( My flywheel failed. I soldered the kernal into the centre. Drilled it and mounted on an arbour to take the outside to size and the wheel started spinning on the kernal, the solder had failed. I tried for a second time with the same results so clearly my soldering isn`t up to scratch! I`m going to have to read up more on brazing and buy some correct sticks - I`m using some I got from BQ and clearly it isn`t the right stuff. I`m guessing it need to be a good join as well as the weight of the cast spinning when trying to cut the outside rim is just too much and ripping it off the kernal!! I take it there should be no reason why I don`t get a good joint between brass and cast iron??
Anyway, not to be deterred, I didn`t really have any materials for a fly wheel and then looked through a box a kind madmodder gave me over a year ago (please shout out if you wish :beer:) and in there was a ready cut fly wheel inside hub and outside, just not mounted together. So after a bit of measuring and take a little cut from the outside, I plugged the predrilled inside hole with a 15mm bar of aluminium cut to a taper and used loctite. I then loctited in the hub into the flywheel rim. The next day I drilled a new 8mm bore through the centre gripping the outside of the flywheel so the hole was concentric and tapped it to hold the flywheel to the crank shaft. Flywheel complete -well nearly, just needs a good polish! :D - OK I cheated a bit, but I figure the 5-6 hours work on the failed dumbell made up for it.... BUT I will complete that, I`m not just going to leave it and give up.
I also had to made an adapter for the small 24 tooth spur gear so that it could be also held to the crank. The plans call for the spur gear to be attached to the flywheen but I figured I`d have no problems just using grub screws to fasten each to the crank independently.
Here is the con rod and piston.
So it is looking quite good now and turns nicely with a push on the flywheel yet has a great piston seal. I have a few questions if anyone can answer:
1. Obviously any advice regarding the soldering of the brass kernal to the cast iron surround would be useful even thought my flwheel is now made.
2. I now have to fit my 48 tooth spur wheel to the frame to mate with the 24 tooth gear. The plans just call for accurate measurement and drilling the frame to mount the stub on which the spur gear will sit. I`m just worried about the accuracy of this method. Because I made the gears they are not perfect and consequently they need to be as close as possible without binding. This method doesn`t allow any adjustment. I was thinking it might be worth mounting a stub on a bracket and then attaching the bracket to the frame on slotted holes to allow a few mm of adjustment. Do you think this is necessary? Also, if the axle is actually attached to the spur gear and spins with it, going through the frame, you could actually run the hall effect sensor off this and just get the required 1 fire per 2 cycles rather than running it off the crank shaft and getting 2 fires of the spark plug per action of which one is wasted. Then again, I guess this is more hastle when it isn`t needed and it also forces the hall effect sensor to be mounted under the cylinder which is more ackward.
Thanks for any advice and your comments so far. I`ve got another week in work and then I`m off for a few weeks for Easter so I`d like to try and finish it in this next month! The next part to make after mounting the second spur gear and making the little valve leaver will be the valve itself....which looks horrible! Truth is, I don`t really understand how it works and is built, so lots of fun and games to come!!!
Chris
Bernd:
Solder won't work to good on cast iron, also there is a lot of mass to heat. I'd LoctiteŠ the kernal, or what ever you call, it in place.
Bernd
dbvandy:
--- Quote from: craynerd on March 31, 2011, 06:07:59 PM ---I also had to made an adapter for the small 24 tooth spur gear so that it could be also held to the crank. The plans call for the spur gear to be attached to the flywheel but I figured I`d have no problems just using grub screws to fasten each to the crank independently.
1. Obviously any advice regarding the soldering of the brass kernal to the cast iron surround would be useful even thought my flwheel is now made.
2. I now have to fit my 48 tooth spur wheel to the frame to mate with the 24 tooth gear. The plans just call for accurate measurement and drilling the frame to mount the stub on which the spur gear will sit. I`m just worried about the accuracy of this method.
--- End quote ---
I attached mine to the crank with 2 screws 90 deg apart. worked good
Brazing with brass brazing rod and an oxy acy torch will work, but you have to get it real hot...
With the crank installed, but no flywheel, lay the central upright on its side and place the large gear up to the smaller one just above where it would clear the base plate. mark the hole with a transfer punch and mount the gear. You might find that the crank throw would hit anything that went through the upright to the other side.
When you are turning the valves you have to do both surfaces in on setup and put your compound at 45 degrees. I made my block a bit thicker than the plans so that I could use bigger bolts and have more surface to seal the valve guides to the block.
Doug
sbwhart:
I've seen that flywheel someware before :scratch:
As Bernd and the guys said not s good idea to solder the cast iron it will take a lot of heat to get it up to temperature, even more heat is required for brazing unless you've got the Kit to get the temperature real high stay clear of brazing.
Stew
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