Gallery, Projects and General > Project Logs
Webster IC Engine build log.
raynerd:
Well I`ve gone for it and ordered one. I`ve just found a couple of almost identical packages, in fact on one, the photo was identical just a different sticker on the electronics box and that was £60. I`ll let you know when it arrives.
NickG:
Sounds a good deal that then Chris. Will be interesting to see what it's like.
You're right, if you ran it off the large gear it would fire at the right times. If you ran from the crank it'd fire 2 x as much as it needs to but lots of ignition systems are apparently 'wasted spark'. Guess you're wearing the plug twice as much - can't see this being a problem as you don't generally change car spark plugs for about 40,000 miles these days. That's a lot of sparks! If you're using a hall sensor there's nothign to wear there so shouldn't be an issue.
Nick
lordedmond:
--- Quote from: craynerd on March 22, 2011, 05:14:28 AM ---I`m just looking over this and your right, this really is a bargain as it works out at £20 including postage providing it doesn`t get caught up in customs. I have been stupid and didn`t see that it is fitted with a CM6 plug which is what I wanted to use anyway!! The link you sent John looks excellent and once I`ve got it running it might be something I experiment with for fun so that I can say it is truely all built including ignition but I expect I`ll have enough issues getting it running than worrying about building the ignition system as well. I think I`ll go ahead and order one of these for £20.
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Part quote
a box and a load of wires sticking out of it :zap: ,coming through customs :( they are going to love the look of that when they X-ray it :D call the Army quick
Just joking
I hope it does what it says on the tin because its a good cheap way to get some sparks , much cheaper that the sum of the parts purchased elsewhere
I have had some electronic bits torn apart before coming from the US but it was just after 9/11
Stuart
raynerd:
...and to be fair, the function of the electronics parts is to mark a spark!!! :doh: Humm, never considered that when I ordered!
Chrius
madjackghengis:
--- Quote from: Da_Kengineer_Meister on March 22, 2011, 05:58:08 AM ---This looks like you are coming right down to the last little bits... Question and please forgive my ignorance since I'm not an engine guy... Are the basic differences between the different spark plugs defined by the following three items...? The dielectric resistance, the operating voltage to strike a spark and the sustained current?
--- End quote ---
As a life long engine mech, the primary differences in plugs are thread size, the length of heat path from center electrode to cooling, and the size of the plug its self. Resistor plugs are the common thing because they don't cause radio interferance with modern electronics, so their resistance is pretty common, and the plug size has gotten smaller because engines are so much smaller in weedeater applications, but other than that, plugs are pretty much the same, with the ignition units making most of the difference. Almost any form of ignition will fire across a .020 in gap, and with model engines, this means we can use very small coils and low voltages, if we wish to. I just pulled a champion plug from a weedeater engine which is ten mm thread, the smallest plug I've ever seen, and I believe it is the same as the cm-6, although I haven't seen on of those except in pictures. In general, the higher the number, compared to other plugs of same manufacture, the longer the heat path, and the hotter the plug runs. In an engine which is run continuously and for long periods, this is critical, as a too hot plug can cause a hole in the piston. For model engines, this is not normally even an issue at all, and hot plugs don't foul as easily. If you find your plugs getting fouled from messing around with timing, mixture and oil, the easiest way to "clean" it, so it will reliably fire is to hold it in a vise on the wire end, and aim a torch flame down between the center electrode and the casing with the threads, trying to get the blue tip of the flame on the center electrode. Any oil down deep with show up as a pale blue flame around the opposite side of the ground electrode, as opposed to the reddish spread flame of the torch impinging on the steel, giving it the reddish hue, and aiming between the center electrode and ground from both sides, hits the hardest part to get up to temperature, and once there is no more light of "phantom" blue flame on the opposite side from both sides, you will fine pristine ceramic on the center electrode when it is cooled off. :beer: Cheers, Jack
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