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Webster IC Engine build log.
kwackers:
I've never tried this - but won't there be too much 'give' in that wood? I woodn't have thought it rigid enough, in particular it looks like pine or spruce which isn't a particularly dense material. Would a small 'sub table' mounted on jacks not be better?
I made a set of boring bars - with micrometer adjusters ages ago (from Hemingways plans) but never used them. Mounting the work has always put me off, plus my lathe is set to turn parallel (whereas I'm always tweaking the tailstock, so that would need setting prior to the job) and never had anything needing boring that was so long as to be out of reach of my longest boring bar.
(I did pick up a vertical slide with the idea I'd use that to mount the work.)
NickG:
Boring bar looks good Chris, just a quick point that I fell foul of when turning a recess on my flywheels, is the radius on the bottom of your tool less than the radius of the bore, otherwise it will foul. You sure that is silver steel? Doesn't look like it but don't think it'd matter.
If you can't counterbore enough, just counter bore the wooden base instead? I didn't counterbore my alloy base for my ridders flame licker, just put cut outs in the wood, was much easier!
Nick
raynerd:
Cheers Chaps.
Kwackers - I did think about this but JasonB who clearly has had success with this method only looked to use soft wood here:
http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=4093.15
Before I start tonight I must remember to put the pieces of card inbetween the blocks so it was good that you raised the point as it made me go back to that post!! I didn`t have a long enough boring bar for the job BUT as Stew mentioned in an earlier message in the thread I linked to above, I could have easily made one. To be honest, I`ve never done this and in my mind it seems a nice way of getting a clean bore. I`ll take light cuts as not to put too much strain on the work and holding fixture. I`ll see how it goes but I do appreciate and understand your thoughts.
NickG - good advice. The tool is HSS as it was hard to grind but yes, I did insert the tool into the boring bar and then realised the starting bore is smaller than the back of the tool fouling so I had to grind it much shorter.
I`ll give it a bash later tonight, hopefully it`ll work!
Chris
Bogstandard:
Going back to the first parts of your build, about the finning.
When working from plans, people follow them religiously and sometimes have trouble replicating them exactly. When the chappie first came up with the drawings, he worked with what he had, if you don't have the same materials and tooling, it can be a little difficult to follow the build exactly.
There is a secret to it all.
If you can keep the major dimensions correct and in the right positions, then everything else can be swapped about or cut out to whatever takes your desire. That is why some of us can make an engine look totally different from the original, but still have it work exactly the same way. Things like bore and piston materials and their sizes should be the same, as should crank positions and throws and everything else that is critical to the running, but everything else is pure bling target fodder. In fact, you could most probably easily take the critical dimensions and turn it into a vertical engine, or even on it's side, nothing is written in stone.
So don't worry too much if it doesn't look exactly the same as the original, we are all allowed some 'artistic licence'.
NickG:
Sorry, Chris I wasn't clear - I just meant was the bar itself Silver Steel? Usually it has a ground finish and doesn't seem to rust that's all. Don't think it'll matter though.
Sure it'll work great, as John said I always try to make things to suit what I have. Poppin is the only exception which I bought material for as I wanted to build as close to plans as possible but even still there are a couple of odd tweaks on that.
Looking forward to your next boring post :lol:
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