Scott flame licker build

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scrapman:
Hi John :wave:, Things take alot longer with me to John, I starting to get old lol,

Ray,

Bogstandard:
Now I have got my bit of new old tooling out of the way, I can carry on getting this engine built.

I need to find where to bore the hole so that when the sleeve is fitted, not only is it parallel to the base but also the correct height from it. The conrod has a fairly wide sweep up and down, and if those two are not correct, within reason, the conrod will catch the edge of the cylinder.
So using an old fitters trick, I filled the cast hole up with a bit of sheet lead tapped into position so that it grabs the inside of the hole. There are many other methods that can be used, bits of wood etc, but I find that this way suits me.

By using a few hand tools, and a copy of John Stevensons precision oddleg scribing calipers, I got the centre hole spotted to within a couple of thou. When working with castings such as this, that is perfectly good enough.
It took the opportunity to mark up where the faced area needs to be cut to.

Using my coaxial thingybob I soon had the centre found and the table zeroed up and locked.

I was soon boring thru both the top and bottom faces.
I did find out the the boring head actually removes double the amount that is set, the normal thing on a lathe, but no problems keeping things accurate, it is marked up in half thous.

It was soon up to a position where the sleeve could be gently pushed thru both top and bottom faces. I should have no trouble sealing the sleeve into the hopper.
There was a problem with the boring head, I had made the key handle much too small, and it hurt my fingers as I took the facing cuts. Because of this, I actually forgot to take any pics of the facing exercise.
I will soon be able to knock up a more comfortable key, and maybe another time I can show it facing off.

But it actually did a superb job, totally square to the bore, but I did have to go to 0.025" (0.6mm) deep to clean off the casting face so that the sleeve flange sat flat all the way around.

The two parts pushed together. I'm very happy with the results.

I am now in the process of recentring everything up, because if I now make the cylinder head and stick it onto these two bits, I can drill all the holding bolts at the same time rather than having to spot thru from a previously drilled cylinder head, and maybe make a mistake.

So next time will be the cylinder head.

Bogs

Dean W:
Looks very well done, John. Your new big bruiser boring head seems to be working out great too.

madjackghengis:
Hi John, that worked out very nicely, I'm envious the facing capacity, it did a beautiful job setting up for that flange. I was looking for a new honing set today, and can't find anything anywhere near as nice as that kit you showed, with the range it has. :beer: cheers, Jack

Bogstandard:
Jack,

Amazon in the UK sell them,

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-VS029-Cylinder-Hone-4-in1/dp/B000RO7THQ

So I would suspect the much larger Amazon base in the US would do as well.

John

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