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| NickG:
John, I was going to put sliding scales on my mill but have taken the advice from people on here and my experience using proper DRO's at university and digi verniers not to bother. I think it'd be better than what I currently have, but not enough to justify and the extra for a proper DRO would be well worth it. So I'll wait until I can afford a proper one with glass scales. Not sure whether to put money into a DRO, or a rotary table and QCTP next. I have come to the conclusion that on my machine, there must be a pitch error in the screws. The handwheels work ok for small movements but if you have to wind something on a few inches, the error gets greater and greater! You're right, I'll make the best of what I have. I hope to have the all singing and dancing stuff one day but for now I need to improve my skills by a long way to justify anything like that I think! The other argument is, is it worth putting on my machine, is it good enough. Looking forward to the next post. Thanks Nick |
| Bogstandard:
If things are that critical Nick, maybe you could cobble something together with a bit of ali plate and some magnets, and get a digivern on there as a temporary fitting. I personally, thru experience, wouldn't recommend the scale type of DRO's, except where there is no swarf or liquid, say on the quill. I fitted them in the very beginning, and with all the messing around and changing them, I could have bought a full blown glass scale one with the amount of money I spent on them in the two years I had them fitted. I used to have to carry spares scales in stock, as they would go down for no reason, half way thru a critical job. John |
| AdeV:
Nick - it sounds like you've got a metric screw & imperial dials - or vice versa. I don't know what mill you have, but it might be worth seeing if you can hunt down a set of alternative dials? John - this is a fascinating build, I'm watching it with great interest. The more you show, the more I feel my slowly growing machining skills might be up to building something like this. So, thanks for that! One question - can you tell me some more about this cutter: It looks almost like a T-slot cutter to me (only deeper), but I'm sure it's not... |
| NickG:
Ade, if I remember I'll take some pics and show you them tonight. Think they are both metric and imperial, it's like a chester century. |
| Bogstandard:
Ade, I thought I had given you one of these cutters, almost everyone else that visited got the offer of one, shame I don't have any spare ones left. They are a special solid tungsten end and face cutter, just like the larger diameter ones that look like large slitting saws. These are designed to rip thru hard materials like nimonic steels, but are accurate and sharp enough to take a wisp off, which is the way I use it, in both planes. It can reach down a face where a normal end mill can't get, by taking a few swipes at it, I can face an end by about 6" deep, as the cutting face is just larger than the outside collet. It really is too large for a normal collet to hold in my machine, I think 1.125", I am limited to 1" normally, so I have to use a special outside R8 collet to hold it, but that won't allow me to do very heavy work with the cutter, maybe 50 thou max cut in steel before it starts to tell me enough is enough. I wouldn't say working from castings is diffiicult, it is just you have to treat them in a slightly different way than when making from bar stock. Once you get the basic understanding that nothing you will get hold of will be either square or flat, then you can start to work accurately with them. Parallels, a DTI, a small level and machinist jacks will become your best mates, and of course, a bit of jig plate. When I get to do my larger casting build, the vice has got to go, everything will be held down to the table on the largest bits, thats when things like machinist jacks come into play. John |
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