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| Bogstandard:
Jack, It seems that US sash weights aren't made to the high specs of UK made ones. I just cut off 3" to 4" of the end opposite to the cast in loop, and that gets rid of all the dross, the rest is then perfectly useable. 12" to 13" of 1 & 3/8" diameter of fine grain cast iron. I have forgotten the number of little engines and parts I have made from them, and I have enough in stash to last the rest of my natural, so the saying, 'I'm OK Jack' comes into play. John |
| cfellows:
Hey John, that's a neat trick using the the end mill to cut the groove in the pulley. By the way, is that an ER Collet on the spin indexer? Did you make it? Chuck |
| Bogstandard:
Thanks Chuck. Actually, the ER collet system on a spindexer is in fact an idea by our own John Stevenson, and they are retailed by Arc Euro. About half way down the page is the spindexer, but if you go to the very bottom, you will see a 5c to ER32 adapter, I am sure you could knock one up out of a blank 5c arbor, like I am doing at the moment with other types of fittings. At this moment, I am part way thru making a 5c to R8. http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Collets/5C-Fixtures John |
| doubletop:
John Another great "how to' build from you. I've not been following up to now as I've been doing my own stuff that has kept me away from forums to some degree. Looking forward to its imminent completion. One minor point; way back I did see reference to "this is going to be imperial measurements and BA threads" then I noticed some 3mm studs crept in (or didn't they in the end)......... regards Pete |
| madjackghengis:
Hi John, I wanted to say how much I enjoyed the whole log, but the particular parts that were learning lessons. That deal with the end mill and the pulley is great, I made a tubing bender for motorcycle frames, went through three different iterations, making "pulleys" for each, the hard way, and since I will be making another version, having learned from this last, I will be making another "pulley" with an inch groove, but the groove will be more accurate, and far easier to machine, using your method. I also questioned the thinning of the burner cover, and have made a similar burner, only out of 3/8ths copper pipe, for the smaller engine, and used a .046 drill behind a #1 center drill, drilling some .310 deep, and when I cut it off, faced it, and got it all cleaned up, the back side looked dead on target, and there are obvious signs of drill wandering in the .300 thousandths of drilling, so I will be making the next one much thinner, your instincts being dead on right. Not enough wandering to make it not work I expect, but I'd rather the pattern be accurate on the burner face, and I expect the length of the holes will have some effect on the direction of the gases coming out to burn. I will be testing it out shortly, and will post the results on the log I started just for gathering ideas and brain storming on these engines. I'm hoping that will stay around a while, and let more people start with a simple engine, and not have them, as you point out, sitting on shelves not running, when it generally is a pile of niggling details together stopping it, and not just one big error. I don't have a ready made orfice so I will be trying out my own set of small jet drills, and hopefully will find one that works well with the pipe size and the nineteen holes in the burner head. Again, a very well done and easily followed build log that has been very informative. Wish I could still smoke :poke: :lol: I miss it a lot, even twenty years later. :beer: Cheers, Jack |
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