Scott flame licker build

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madjackghengis:
Hi John, it looks like that burner came out very well. I've been running my "oddball", with just the light of the overhead in my shop, so I can look through the port and watch how the flame plays through the hole. I've got an inch and a half stroke, three quarter bore, with a three eighths port, using a nine thousandths leaf from a feeler gauge and about a .213 brass tube with cotton string for wick, and I see a half inch diameter flame "ball", a soft flame, as the port closes, and about an inch or more of flame going fully into the cylinder when fully up to temp, running about six hundred rpm. I think a gas burner out of perhaps three eighths copper fittings, scaled down comparable burner plate and venturi, will probably give me a bit more flame than my alky lamp, and probably allow me to cut it in half, for a slow run as well as the full out speed. I've had the soldered together valve linkage break the solder joints from letting it get up to about seven hundred rpm, it's soldered a bit better, but I suspect I'd better put a bracing brass tube to triangulate the linkage or a better flame will cause another breakage.
That burner build section is very well done, and clarifies things a lot, making for some ideas on a similar burner for a sort of version of "poppin" I've been working on. I want to get away from the alky lamps and go with the gas as much as possible. I've used one of those torch type lighters with butane, and the strong flame doesn't do near as good a job as the soft flame you're getting and seems to draw in cold air as you suggested. I'm trying to get my oddball a bit easier to operate so I can give it to my mom, I think she'll enjoy it, especially if it's easy to clean up, and easy to get it to run right off cold.
I think the narrower tank looks good on that other build you show, and will look good on yours too. I suspect the graphite will last pretty well, as it stands almost red heat pretty easily, and it doesn't conduct heat very well. The way this build went I'm thinking I need to emulate it, it looks to be quite efficient altogether. very nicely done, and with very nice graphics, I really like the vid of the burner, and the narrative you give with it. Very informative. :beer: Cheers, Jack

andyf:
John, at first sight your burner seemed to have a lot in common with a laboratory Meker burner, which according to one source I have seen produces (on natural gas) 12,000 BTU/hr as against 5,000 from a Bunsen. Pic of a Meker here: http://www.crscientific.com/mekerburner.html . Thus, I thought you might get a rather roaring flame, but the lack of a "specially designed barrel" on yours, and the turbulence caused by the bend, probably keeps it in check. Nice job; looking forward to seeing it powering the engine.

Andy

Bogstandard:
A little more slow progress. I have been trying to sort out a decent spring hanger method, rather than the crappy ones shown on the plan and what you can see in the few piccies I showed last time.

This is how I got on.

The ones at the back, I incorporated into the valve arm hub, and by measuring that up between the arms, I managed to get a length for the graphite block to lifting arm spacer, so a couple of those were knocked up out of brass.
Once that was done, a quick measure up between the back spring tails and I could start to make up the top hangers.

This shows where the springs have to stretch to, plus it shows how the cam follower and lifting arms work,

After an hour or so's work, the top hangers were made. The bottom left hand one has slipped on the shaft slightly as the grub screws have yet to be tightened, but you can now see that the springs are now well secured and running parallel with the operating arms, rather than the haphazard way they are suggested to be mounted.

How they sit with the cylinder and water jacket fitted. I started to set up for a very basic try out, with the grub screws all tightened up and the timing somewhere near. I am going to have the engine with the flywheel running clockwise when viewed from this side of the engine, rather than from the other side. That means the flywheel retaining pulley screw is tightening up during running rather than trying to unscrew itself.

Unfortunately, I failed miserably.

I was attempting to run the engine with the cam follower arm retained by a grub screw onto it's shaft rather than a pin right thru it. I did that for ease of disassembly during trials. It kept slipping, so it looks like I will have to pin it now rather than later. Also, I need to shorten the studs slightly that hold the cylinder head on, the graphite block spacers are just touching them. Before going ahead and shortening them, I will make and fit the cylinder head gasket first, that just might give me the clearance I need.

Getting there slowly.

Bogs

lordedmond:
Looking good John

It would be great if someone could do some macro/slow motion video of the flame propagation though the port on a flame gulper engine

Stuart

Bogstandard:
Stuart,

I was looking at purchasing a new camera to do just that, a Casio model, but having not long ago bought a new Fuji one, I thought it a bit of a waste of money just for the slomo feature, so maybe in another years time.

I will be happy just to see it running.

A job for today, hopefully.

John

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