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| Scott flame licker build |
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| Bernd:
--- Quote from: bogstandard on March 12, 2011, 09:29:15 PM ---No joking about the t-shirt, but over here we have things like washing machines and powder to get things clean, we gave up pounding laundry on rocks at the side of the stream a few centuries ago. John --- End quote --- Over hear we just throw them away. Why waste money on a washing machine and detergent. :scratch: Bernd |
| NickG:
I agree, I think it will be unnecessary friction wearing the block a lot faster, they sound quite strong. Your mods will no doubt make significant improvements. I guess the valve is quite a good design feature as the little bits of graphite from the block will be sucked into the cylinder and lubricate it and should keep the port face nice and clean. You can see a slight build up on poppin now, don't know how long it would take for that to build up and prevent a good seal. I've handed it over to my Dad now who seemed impressed, put a little note in saying "this one works" but have yet to show him. Another thing I noticed on poppin that alters the characteristics is the spring that keeps the cam follower against the cam. How is that done on yours John? Because it's just a strand of spring wire on poppin it's easy ish to change the tension. I've never really played with the cam timing because it seemed to run well from where I first set it but I think the thing you can play with is how much before bottom dead centre it closes. Because of the light weight valve it opens when it wants to, when the pressures equalise - I think yours will do the same if your springs are light enough. Nick |
| Bogstandard:
Hi Nick, Despite my reservations, I had the original springs set up this morning for a try out, and they don't need to be stretched as far as I thought, so I am going ahead and making some custom spring hangers for them. If they do work out too strong, I have another idea that can still use the hangers I made this morning. My cam spring is a fairly substantial leaf spring about 1/4" wide by about 1/32" thick, and with all the weight of the operating linkage, it still keeps the ball raced arm in very good contact with the cam. I do have a fair amount to play with regards to timing, about 10 degrees, also because it will be running on gas, it can easily be throttled, just turn the gas up/down. I have also modded it so that the cylinder can be slid backwards/forwards, giving me control of how close the piston head can be near the cylinder head. I have it set at this time with about 0.002" clearance, so that should be able to completely evacuate the cylinder before the next cycle starts. Just another thing to try out. John |
| Bogstandard:
As this little engine is progressing steadily towards getting to a running state, I thought I had better do something about the gas burner I will be using. These are some of the parts that actually make up the gas burner. I purchased online a new pipe and jet holder plus the right sized jet. For the price they cost, they are not worth making yourself, just a load of machining hassle. Also needed were a couple of end feed plumbing bits, which I managed to pick up while I was out yesterday. Not exactly the correct ones shown on the plan, but they will do just as well. The plans call for a brass mixing chamber pipe to be made, I don't know why, as it can't be for cosmetic reasons, because it is hidden under the engine, a bit of 15mm copper plumbing pipe will do just as well. If you look at the plumbing bends, on each flange they have a stamped in safety code. They will look awful on the finished burner, so they have to go. Mounted up onto an expanding mandrel, some good quality cutting lube (standard cutting fluid for copper is tallow, or as a substitute, full cream cows milk) and a change to a new tip soon had them turned off using shallow cuts. There is a little of the lettering left, as it was rather deep, but that will come out in final polish. Looking better already. Next came the four air supply holes for the gas jet and mixing chamber, they were soon drilled in their correct positions. Now ready for first stage silver soldering. I set it up this way to keep the top part in the correct position to the other two pieces. It needs to be totally central in position, not tilted over one way or another. The joints were set up with Tenacity 5 flux and 1/16" easyflo silver solder. Thicker solder than normal was used because the joint cavities will take a bit of filling. The top joint was completed first, then once set, the job was laid down and the second joint completed. A quick dose, first of steel, then brass wire brushes on the buffing machine soon had it cleaned up enough to go onto the second part of the build sequence. This is roughly where the burner will sit on the finished engine, with the refillable gas tank at the far end, just past the flywheel. The engine is up on bolts at this time, as I won't be making the wooden bearers until I get well into the finishing off bling sessions. There needs to be some parts made and fitted to finish off this burner, they will be shown in the next instalment. Bogs |
| madjackghengis:
Hi John, that burner assembly is looking very nice, it looks like it should put out a fair sized flame, and the solder work came out very well, I'm hoping to emulate it with my oddball flamesucker, so it can be speed controlled, as you indicate will be easy for your engine when it is finished. Can't wait to hear it run. :beer:cheers, Jack |
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