Scott flame licker build

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Divided he ad:

--- Quote ---I will try to give you a bit of inspiration when you call tomorrow Ralph, how to sweep out a workshop in one easy lesson.

That is what my instructor used to say if ever he caught anyone doing nothing. 'There is always something to do, even if it is only sweeping up'.

--- End quote ---

:lol: You should have :wack: me today John. I only just read this post! It was a very similar affair in the garages too.... Never get caught standing around! :whip:

The engine so far looks very good in person too. Pretty damn big too :thumbup: proper smooth machined/lapped surfaces :dremel:

I've sneak previewed the flywheel in it's next stage too :borg:

Cheers for today John, always good to "beat the gums" as you say :beer:
(Thanks to Mal too for the choccies :ddb: )

Ralph.

madjackghengis:
Hi John, that engine is coming along very nicely, and I have seen good cause for having a self-centering four jaw for the first time, and will be keeping an eye out for one. I think the bronze is used because it casts so easily, and at lower temperatures, and iron is used when the amount of bronze gets prohibitively expensive. I personally like the offset that the use of both bronze and iron makes for looks, and often, for utility, as iron moves less with temperature while bronze is better in corrosive environments. I hope to see at least a glimmer of bronze when you have that flywheel painted up, it has really turned out nice, and the form fits very well with the whole of the engine. A very nice job on setting up the cylinder, head, a water hopper, and getting the port in proper place. It should be quite a runner when finished. Funny, I seem to remember my shop teacher having a very similar outlook on idle hands. All together, very nicely done, and getting close to running. :beer: cheers, Jack

Bogstandard:
Jack,

Thanks for the comments, and I actually use my 4 jaw self centring more than the 3 jaw, I find they run slightly truer and give that extra bit of grip and versatility when needed.

The flywheel will actually be having the whole rim area showing with just the spokes, inner rim and hub painted. It has started to be blinged up with a few detail features, so until the first firing up, it won't be shown as it is put away for protection, while I am still doing rough work on the engine.

Talking about doing a bit of rough work, I have now just completed the main crank and valve operating cam.

The blanks were made up to the drawing dimensions, and using a few basic marking out tools, what needed to be trimmed off was drawn onto them. Nothing too special, near enough will be good enough except for fixed datum points, centre hole in relation to crank throw and operating angle of cam.

To cut the cam flanks, I just placed a parallel along the vice jaw top and eyeballed the drawn line to be in line with the top of the para.

It was then cut away until the cutter just touched on the central boss.

The same was then done with the other flank line. It was remeasured and found to be spot on the required 120 degs. seperation.

Next came the crank disc to have a bit of hacking done to it.

Because I will be swinging a fairly large cutter about, cutting to full depth of the flange, I put a washer on top of each jaw as spacers, to stop the cutter hitting my hardened chuck jaws.

With the part being tapped down onto the washers and being held in the jaws on the back boss, the RT was centred up on the crank spindle hole by putting a 6mm spotting drill in the quill and moving the RT about until the drill centred perfectly in the hole.

Next I moved the RT 1" to the left (crank throw dimension) and by turning the RT, I got the spot drill exactly over the centre line of the crank disc. The 5/32"(4mm) tapping hole was then drilled. Crank throw sorted.

The RT was then locked up so that it coudn't be rotated.

Next came cutting out the recesses using a 3/4" slot drill.

By using the X & Y traverses, the marked areas were cut out using shallow cuts until they split the marked lines.

The first one done, the second soon followed suit.

A little bit of filework in the bench vice had everything trimmed down to the lines, followed by a quickie clean up.

Except for drilling their grub screw holes, job done.

Now I can start on the operating rods, made from brass. Rather than following patterns and plans religiously, as long as the holes are in the right places, and nothing fouls, I should be able to use a little artistic licence.

Bogs

arnoldb:
Those parts came out great John :bow:

And thanks for the tip on those washers on the chuck jaws; that will certainly come in handy on many occasions.

Kind regards, Arnold

Rob.Wilson:
Hi John

You sure are making cracking progress :clap: :clap: ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, looks like the division master is getting a good work out too :dremel: well worth the time to build one :med:

Rob

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