Author Topic: Potty Over Crank Wall Engine (Read 231198 times)

sbwhart · « **Reply #25 on:** January 22, 2011, 12:33:57 PM »

Made a start on fabricating the steam chest, the parts are straight forward machining.

The dowels well keep everything in place when soldering, there not a particularly tight fit and I filed a flat on them to let any gas escape as the job heats up other wise the pressure will pop them out.

This is how I set it up for solder, with the joint fluxed and rings of solder round the glands and little nuggets of solder sitting on the joint, putting it in the corner helps keeps bits in place and retain the heat, I tuch on the end of the dowels with a filler rod just to fill them in.

This is it after 5 minutes in the acid i stuck it back in for an hour

Cleaned the outside up with a file then milled the faces flat so they will make a good seal.

Then with it upright in the vice find the centres and drill and tap the sealing gland.

Starting to look like a cylinder now.

Stew

saw · « **Reply #26 on:** January 22, 2011, 01:06:12 PM »

You are doing a very greate work mister.

raynerd · « **Reply #27 on:** January 22, 2011, 01:10:53 PM »

Thank you...great explanation!!!

arnoldb · « **Reply #28 on:** January 22, 2011, 02:46:04 PM »

, Arnold

Dean W · « **Reply #29 on:** January 22, 2011, 06:54:10 PM »

Wow Stew. A lot of interesting setup work you are showing here. I like the way you did the steam
passage ports, too. A lot better than trying to figure drilling holes that sit in two different angle planes!
Thanks for the show.

Dean

shoey51 · « **Reply #30 on:** January 23, 2011, 01:03:57 AM »

Wow Stew glad I caught this build I just love watching you work

im not game to tackle anything this intricate

cheers Graham

sbwhart · « **Reply #31 on:** January 23, 2011, 11:59:00 AM »

Thanks for you kind support chaps

I had to change the layout of the holes in the steam chest, when I came to try the chest on the cylinder to see how thing looked I realized that changing the air feed hole position meant that I would break through into them with the steam chest fixing holes, not as though it would have been a disaster as the studs will be sealed in and the chest will be sealed on the cylinder but I thought it best to avoid it.

So with the new layout marked on the chest first drill them 3mm

When I milled the steam ports and machined the chest I marked the center line with a tiny dimple from the centre drill, this is so I will have a mark to line things up. So with two way sticky type on the chest stick it to the cylinder centrally and square using the marks and the back edge of the chest lined up on the back edge of the cylinder, then with a little transfer punch made from a bit of 3mm silver steel (drill rod) mark the position of the holes in the cylinder.

Set the cylnder level using the digi level, a real handy bit of kit , carefully line up on the marks with a centre drill and then drill M3 tapping.

Then on the tapping stand and the cylinder jacked level using a sine bar tap the holes nice and square.

Now for the cover a bit of 2mm brass plate was rough cut out and the chest placed on top and a line scribed round it.

Mill to the line, the parallels are to reduce the angle of dangle and give it a bit of extra support.

Then clamp the chest to it and drill through when you've done the first hole put a clamp bolt through it do the second and put another clamp bolt through it as well, remove the clamp and drill the rest of the holes, I used a number 31 drill to give a little wiggle room.

The hole in the middle will take the air intake flange the top of this flange will be leveled off so the hole in the cover needs to go in at an angle, so with the cover bolted to the chest and set up at 15 deg, first a big centre drill followed by a slot drill this angle the hole nicely.

This is the cylinder assembly so far

Stew

raynerd · « **Reply #32 on:** January 23, 2011, 12:06:56 PM »

Looking top draw!!

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #33 on:** January 23, 2011, 12:33:02 PM »

Beautiful work Stew!

David D

sbwhart · « **Reply #34 on:** January 23, 2011, 01:48:54 PM »

Thanks Guys

Quote from: Da_Kengineer_Meister on January 23, 2011, 12:33:54 PM

Nice, very nice, glad you can find time to work on excellent projects like this!
-Kenneth

Kenneth

I'm retired

so I've plenty of time to indulge my hobby and watch our grandchildren grow up.

Thanks

Stew

saw · « **Reply #35 on:** January 23, 2011, 03:02:12 PM »

This is so very nice, keep up your'e good work.

arnoldb · « **Reply #36 on:** January 23, 2011, 03:03:20 PM »

Good going Stew

- top job!

Kind regards, Arnold

NickG · « **Reply #37 on:** January 23, 2011, 04:08:27 PM »

Looks spot on that Stew, even more impressive that you've seen this engine in full size, done your research and now creating it in miniature.

Nick

Divided he ad · « **Reply #38 on:** January 24, 2011, 12:09:52 PM »

Well Stew, I've missed much of this (head being in the clouds!) But I've just read through it all and I'm very impressed

You take a little time from your loco to relax and end up making an engine from one you saw and thought you'd like to make... Top job!

I'm liking your progress so far

Ralph.

sbwhart · « **Reply #39 on:** January 24, 2011, 12:32:34 PM »

Thanks Guys

Happy new year Ralph sorry I missed you over at Johns the other week

Ever had one of those days when you think you should have stayed in bed.

Putting the pipe coupling on the steam chest cover I turned the bit up, and soldered it to the cover, this is the set up I used to solder it, coupling sitting on a flat surface cover angled bit of heat onto the mill to clean the top of square and drill the stud holes.

This is what I ended up with.

You can see that the darn thing has slipped and I've ended up with quite a taper on the flange

Strike 1 over to plan B

Cut it off and clean the solder off and start again this time I thought it would be more stable if I milled an angle on the coupling

Line it up on the cover and solder it on, square it up drill holes. Nope the double darn thing

had moved also and looked like the leaning tower of thingy.

Strike 2 over to plan C

No more piddling about and stop trying to be cleaver just solder a lump of brass on the cover mill the top off square and drill the holes.

That sorted it

Stew

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #40 on:** January 24, 2011, 12:41:22 PM »

Stew.
Some kind of cosmic learning process, I think......

Well sorted, in the end.

David D

Rob.Wilson · « **Reply #41 on:** January 24, 2011, 12:44:19 PM »

Hi Stew

LOOKIN GREAT

looks just like the real thing

Rob

NickG · « **Reply #42 on:** January 24, 2011, 02:49:23 PM »

Shame about the first 2 attempts Stew but you got there and it looks just as good.

Nick

Divided he ad · « **Reply #43 on:** January 25, 2011, 03:37:38 AM »

Hi Stew... Happy new year to you too

Not a problem about missing my visit... there will be another soon enough

(as long as I'm allowed.... Should be? Don't want to assume. I always ask

)

Quote

Ever had one of those days when you think you should have stayed in bed.

Oh.... Just every day

Shame about the fails..... Good stuff with the recovery

Ralph.

shoey51 · « **Reply #44 on:** January 25, 2011, 02:29:22 PM »

Stew these things happen to the best of men but you persisted and it worked out in the end

cheers Graham

sbwhart · « **Reply #45 on:** January 26, 2011, 11:00:17 AM »

Things slowed down over the last couple of days but did manage to get a little done on the cylinder end covers, these are just plain turning jobs the hard bit is dealing with the thin section when you do the second op, I deal with it by puting my back stop in the head stock and pushing the thin cover up against it this help get it concentric and keep it secure. With the piston end covers with the stuffing gland its important to get the register with the cylinder concentric with the piston rod hole I do this by clocking the cover up in my three jaw i know that if I keep trying it in diferent positions one of them will be spot on.

Drilling the bolt holes and drilled to the full depth of the flutes this was enough to do three of the covers.

A bit of fancy work

Clocking the a cover up

Covers done

I'm planning on fitting a governor to the engine I drew one up but as I was unsure if I'd got the proportion correct

The first pic shows the governor against the cylinder at 1 : 1 scale

Its far too big

This is it 1/2 size

Better but a wee bit small I think I somthing slighly bigger would be about right, some of the parts will be a bit on the small size but still doable.

Stew

NickG · « **Reply #46 on:** January 26, 2011, 11:16:25 AM »

Nice work on the covers Stew, if you drilled the hole and turn the register at the same setting in the lathe wouldn't they be concentric anyway?

The 1/2 scale governor looks just right to me

Nick

sbwhart · « **Reply #47 on:** January 26, 2011, 11:19:40 AM »

Yes but you'd still have to turn it round to drill and tap for the gland nut which also registeres on the piston rod you pays your money and take your chance

Stew

Rob.Wilson · « **Reply #48 on:** January 26, 2011, 02:09:59 PM »

Hi Stew

I do like the look of that governor

,nice bit of detail in the bracket

Rob

NickG · « **Reply #49 on:** January 27, 2011, 03:26:43 AM »

Of course Stew sorry!

On the covers for the other end I presume you must have spun them around and turned the register last as well, as you did the fancy pattern on the face you can see? Do you just turn them near to size then take smidgins off to get a good fit in the cylinders or just measure them?

Cheers,

Nick

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Author Topic: Potty Over Crank Wall Engine (Read 231198 times)

Rob.Wilson

Rob.Wilson