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Potty Over Crank Wall Engine
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Bogstandard:
If you wanted material Stew, you should have given me a call, if it is here, you can have it.

That pulley is looking nice. I too am putting a lot more faith in retaining compounds, as long as there is no heat about the area.


John
sbwhart:
John the material I'm waiting for is 3mm * 30mm * 1000mm mild steel, if I'm let down I'll come round and see if you can help.

Thanks

Kenneth

Those are good pointers for use of adhesive:- I didn't use cutting oil so I new all the bits were nice and clean, just a bit of cutting dust wiped off with a clean rag, Adhesive can have a bit of a bad press but I think its all a matter of understanding the right conditions and aplications to get the best out of it. I've had that little bottle for over three years now and used it quite a lot I'm begining to think its a endless supply, I certainly got my moneys worth out of it.

Thanks for your interest.

Stew

NickG:
Looking great that Stew. I like the pulley. I think I may try making a flywheel with that method. Is the pulley going to drive anything? I recon it'd have to be a heck of a load to break the bonds so very
Much doubt it'd happen. If you had to pin it, you probably wouldn't see the pins anyway unless you made them from a different material as a feature!
sbwhart:
Thanks Nick

I had though of the posibilites of different material using this method, it would result in an interesting fly wheel.

This little experiment was a limited sucess. Mounted this wheel up in the lathe this moring I had thought of rigging something up that would drive it on the spokes to trim the hub up, taking the load off the bond, but in the end thought no, may as well give it a good test, cleaned the hubs up no problem the adhesive bond held, with just taking light cuts, drilled and reamed out the bore this went fine, ho ho I thought wer're onto a winner, but when I tried the pully on the crank and gave it a spin it was running out, on closer inspection the bond had failed, the failure was axially not radialy, when I drilled out and reamed, I had the wheel chucked so that axiall loading wasn,t being supported by the step I had turned in the rim, allowing the hib and spokes to move back slightly.




This is what it looks like on a lose assembly.





Not to bad

But as one of the critical features of any wheel on a small engine is that it be woble free.
So to fix it I turned up a mandrel, pushed the hub back so that the area of bond was exposed reaplied more loctite, got it back into position and nudged the rim back concentric with a crude nugger, just a bit of brass bar in the tool post, worked a treat wheel is running dead true again, I'll give it plenty of time to cure before having a think about pinning it.



On the face of it I would think that this is a feasable method for fabricating a fly wheel, but you have to take care on any post fixing machining.

Stew

 
saw:
Looking very good.  :thumbup:
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