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| Fixing Ralph's Chucks |
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| John Stevenson:
I use soft jaws a lot and the ones I have do have a recess at the back just for holding a ring to allow you to machine the jaws, I'll get a pic later and post it. |
| madjackghengis:
Just to toss my two cents in, I've had to drill the end of each jaw with a pin hole, and made a ring which fits inside the diameter of the pins sticking out the end of each jaw, and that way get the scroll pressure in the right direction, while keeping the ring clear of the grinding. I was taught to do everything possible to get the chuck running true before even considering grinding, as usually the problem is in the way it's mounted, and in the back plate, unless it's like a couple of chucks I've got which just have had too many things slip in the jaws, and worn out the grip surface. mad jack |
| NickG:
Bogs, Was it necessary to take a skim of the other angled faces of the jaws to get it to close up smaller or did they close up small enough? Guess if it was only a few hundredths of a mm it would still be small enough? Thanks Nick |
| Bogstandard:
Nick, Taking some off the jaw angles was discussed in length by Ralph and myself, but Ralph said he would try things out first, then if needed, he could just bring the jaws back here to have them taken down a little. No big thing with doing that. John |
| philf:
I have successfully reground a few chucks - mainly to rectify wear at the front of the jaws. I turn a tube with a 1.5mm to 2mm wall thickness, the OD of which easily fits into the bore of the chuck. Then I machine 3 slots in the tube wide enough for the chuck jaws to protrude through the slots. This preloads the jaws in the correct direction. Cheers. Phil. (My 1st post - hope the photo appears.) |
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