Shop made vibration/isolation mounts ?

[PTsideshow]

I'm about to pull the wallet out on a stationary electric air compressor. As the gas driven portable 6 hp is a pain to run for long periods.   

80 Gallon 2-Stage Air Compressor 5 hp, from Tractor Supply
This one as it is on sale for $999.99 till Dec 31,2010


After looking at all the ones that are available for what seems a reasonable price for output vs the cost for the home shop/hobbyist/light shop duty.

What I'm wondering is what other people use for rubber iso/vib mounts under the feet. We have only lightly touched on the subject in the past.

I known for some other equipment in the past I have used hockey pucks with large washers bolted to anchors in the floor.

On other forums there are enough suggestions to give one a headache. Some are by the guys that want to see other people have problems, if their suggestions are followed. Like layers of the neoprene floor squares. Or the cheap rubber caster wheels, as they already have the hole in them. Or automotive valve springs with plates on top and bottom.

At this point I'm open and have just stared to web search, as I have been saving for 2 years and doing research on  compressors.

[Bogstandard]

Hi Glen,

I can't give you any proper links because of wrong continent, but for my compressor I used the cheapo levelling feet with a rubber pad already built in, in your money, about 30-40 bucks for a set of 4.

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/range/guid/C769CDF5-DB4D-44CC-993E-8F0D8D7CE8C1

They cut the noise down by about 50%, and they stop it going walkabouts.


John

[Bernd]

Well I'd say after two years of research that you'd have that part covered. 

I have a two stage conpressor also. I built mine up from parts. Right now it's sitting on a wooden platform and not bolted down to anything. It's in the garage and gets used every now and then. I had planned on building a movable carriage so I could move it around, but it's been sitting in it's orginal spot since I put it all together. Ok back on topic.

I guess the question would how much vibration does the unit put out and will it anoy anybody when it runs?

I like the hockey puck, but I would think they are rather hard. I have thought of using a piece of car tread cut square with a piece of hard wood inbetween the feet of the compressor and the floor.  might work just as good.

These are my thoughts and cost about as much as this post. 

I'm sure you'll let us know what you come up with. 

Bernd

P.S. for those interesed in the parts built unit go to my website LINKY HERE

[andyf]

This US supplier seems to offer a good selection:
http://www.avproductsinc.com/

I suppose car engine mounts are another possibility, as are rubber car suspension bushes - the sort with concentric steel cylinders and a layer of rubber between them. Probably expensive though, unless you have a handy scrappie.

Andy

[Pete.]

What about cable isolators? They are quite easy to make. Put 'wire cable isolator' into google images.

[PTsideshow]

All sound like possibles, just got it in the shop. It does have a nice yellow tag stating don't run on the freighting pallet. Will be checking out what the book and dvd has to say.
As it is time to thaw out, wind chill is down to 26'F currently.

[Lew_Merrick_PE]

PT,

I have had a "PUMA" brand compressor since 1994.  It is a 2-stage, 175 psi max compressor rated at 16 cfm @ 160 psi.  That's a real and honest number -- which is rare these days as most compressors will only momentarily hit their "rated" output.  The company that made (and I believe they still do) the PUMA brand is located in Tennessee.  I had to contact them shortly after purchasing it as the tank drain plug was munged on arrival.  The replacement arrived in 2 business days.  Other than that (and changing oil and dressing belts) it has served me extremely well ever since.

To give you an idea as to what I mean about "numbers," I built the assembly tooling for Kenworth's "AERO-2000" tractor cab.  The calculations on this tool was that it needed 28 cfm @ 100 psi to operate at speed.  16 cfm @ 160 psi => 25.6 cfm @ 100 psi (assuming no losses).  My PUMA compressor drove the system at rated cycle times (1 cycle at a time with 2 minutes between cycles) for 100 cycles -- which means that there is "headroom" in their rating.  In 2006, NASA certified it as providing 15 cfm @ 150 psi for 90 seconds at a pop as part of a fuel pump simulation effort.  Most of the compressors I run into use a "downhill with a tailwind" derived output values.  As of 1994, PUMA did not.

My compressor is mounted on oak 4X4's (scavenged from a pallet) with carriage bolts.  The bottom face of the 4X4 has 1/2" of 12 lb/ft³ silicone foam rubber bonded to 1/4" of 70 Shore A durometer neoprene.  It does not walk.  It might be made "quieter," but that has not really been an issue.  I also have a (20 gauge) "earthquake strap" running just under the motor stage -- and I cannot emphasize enough the need to do that.  A friend of mine "lost" his 4-stage compressor back in the earthquake we had here in Washington State in 2002.  The tank exploded when it tipped and did a LOT of damage to his shop!

I had never heard of PUMA in 1994.  A friend of mine wanted me to buy one ($450 wholesale, delivered) to see if he would carry the line in his store.  It has been a very good deal for me -- and my friend's store carried them right up to his death in 2001.  The last time I spoke with him (1999), he had only had ONE service call for a failed part -- and PUMA made good on it with no complaints.  I am certainly happy with this unit.

[krv3000]

HI for give my speling   in the past i have cut out the sides of old tyers for vibration pads

[PTsideshow]

Well it is is the shop and after translating the numbers on the compressor to the nomenclature of the enclosed CD disk with the manuals on it.

I have been over thinking the need for iso/vibration mountings, the manual shows a pad with washer and shims about 1/2" thick

Well I'd say after two years of research that you'd have that part covered. 

Well that just goes to show you, some had these fancy ones on each leg and some had nothing. I started over thinking, what was needed. I think maybe some truck mud flap material maybe the right stuff for the job.

As I have never had any luck finding a recip saw blade that will cut tires with out alot of colorful language and more sweat than they are worth!
Thanks to everybody.

[Pete.]

If you want to cut a tyre with a recip saw you could try clamping pieces of plywood over the rubber, draw your line on the ply and cut the pair together. I've done this with flexible building material similar to rubber.

[PTsideshow]

Will have to remember that, as when I have asked some guys that made planters out of shape cut tires with one side still mounted to the rim and then turned inside out. They wouldn't say, as they thought I wanted to go in to the business as competition. A local homeless workshop makes an old style old school door mat of strips of the tire then it is wired together on its edge.

But they use a two wheel shaped rotary shear, powered by a large motor.  There is a guy that sells plans for making a tire pony or horse swing on the internet for kids. That you cut shapes out of it and then bend and bolt in place. but he wanted you to buy the plans to find out how to cut the tires.

Have no use for the swings and don't want to go into the business of making them either! 

If anybody has had success and care to share, their tire cutting tech?

[Bluechip]

Once cast some ... or sort of, using that dark red rubber jollop, RTV ???, used to cast / mould rubber mallets at one time.

Worked OK, at least for some years. 3 foot x 15" dia (100 litre ?) receiver from memory, with the motor/pump on top.

Don't know if the RTV stuff still around. IIRC it was fairly expensive if you bought it.

We had an 'more eco friendly alternative'     arrangement .. nuff sed ..

Will try a c-o-c. if you want, easy enough to do though.

Dave BC

[fluxcored]

Wanted to buy me some mounts about 2 years ago but walked out of the shop when I heard the price.

Making some adjustable mounts for my drill press is on the todo list.

Would a holesaw not work cutting the tire? I mean the biggest holesaw I've got is 76mm and that's plenty large and deep enough for cutting the tire/rubber into a circular shape to make a mount out of. Daft idea probably.

I saw a couple of months ago a page on the web where the guy made some mounts using the remains of a tire blowout he picked up on the highway. Cannot find it now however.

[PTsideshow]

The biggest and best tool, with cutting tires is patience, I found. After that the sawsall recip saw works for the side walls or the section that meets the road. So If you can hold the tire down securely, a good metal cutting hole saw should work. I had to use a 4 1/2" angle grinder to cut the wire in rim area, Organic respirator helps, think drag strip.

I still like the truck mud flap as they are generally made from layers of canvas and rubber. Will have to keep my eyes open for one on the side of the road. 1/2" diaphragm type material. I only have 3/16" can always stack it I guess.

[Bernd]

Got to this thread a little late.

A freind of mine works in a car scrap yard. He uses a repcip saw with a blade were the teeth are ground off and shaped into a knive. Says it works better than a saw with teeth on it.

Bernd

[PTsideshow]

Well Have plenty of worn out blades from trying shouldn't take to long to find out. And besides better late then not at all

[krv3000]

HI yep i sharpen the baldes in to a knnive blade to and also youse grees to loobrekat it wile cuting   as per for give speling

[fluxcored]

Sorry to drag this up again but when this thread came out I remembered reading an article long time ago about a guy that made his own mounts.

Found it yesterday. http://www.homemetalshopclub.org/news/aug02/aug02.html#mount

Hope it's OK me posting the link.