Belt drive fro X1 Mill

[Gerhard Olivier]

The drive gears in my X1 mill (axminster mini mill) finally broke.  I say finally because they are said to break very often and Mine has not broken in the 3 years iI have had it.

Living in the channel Islands it is just a bit more difficult to get bits than what it was in the UK

So I decided to mod the mill and and make all the bits - then I know it is easy to get replacements again.


For the belt I decided to use a NItrile Seal ( BIG O RING ) 5.33 MM diameter and 13 inch sirc.


THis is the Large ( driven) pulley roughed out ready for the mandrel




Then I made a Expanding Mandrel 20mm  from 25mm MS


And final shape of the Pulley  with the O ring to see if the fit is positive and if it grips - The grip is for the v sides and no contact in the bottom of the grove. 
The pulley is shaped for a standard 6mm 40 deg v belt  This engages the round belt just fine.



Then the same for the Driver / Small pulley


Next is the mounting plate and the pulley tensioner
These are still on the drawing board as the mill is out of action to make them????

More later
Gerhard

[HS93]

Good mod to do a lot quieter and more speeds to play with I used a pc typr plug and socket inbetween the motor and controler so it can be separated from the controle box, I got hold of a comercial belt drive  as i did not feel up to making it at the time after reading someone had built one on another site and they made it sound very difficult

Peter

[Gerhard Olivier]

Thanks Peter the pic of yours will help in planning the whole thing

I tried to do the ratios so that I would have  a 0-1000 , 0-2000 and 0-4000 range hope that my calculations was right

If you dont mind would you post a pic of you electric box just to see where you put it.

Gerhard

[Gerhard Olivier]

Just a quick update
I have made the 3 spacers that keeps the driver pulley at the same hight as the driven pulley.

These have a 16 mm shoulder and the 10mm body with a 19mm foot, the thin body is to give space for the belt to clear.




The main part is the base -I have decided to make that from 10mm acetal.  That would be far to strong and much easier to work with.

Gerhard

[HS93]

  I used a Maplin box but kept it moveable and I have found it usfull for me not being very agile I can move the control to eather end of the mill. i also used a pc power cord and socket so i can separate the motor from the box, it also saved playing inside the top of the motor.I heat shrinked them up so I dont try and plug them in the wrong places, think about ditting a hall sensor so you can fit a rpm couter, it is easy when it is all in bits, I found when  i started looking at the correct revs I started getting better work.but you prob know that by the fact you are making yours.

Peter

[HS93]

the case is one of these ill go out and put the rule over it later if you want.

Peter


http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=1728

[Gerhard Olivier]

Thanks Peter

I do like the idea to unplug the motor easily 
Your pulley system must give a very high top rpm spead???

I have asked a local CNC man for a qoute to make the base - If that is to much i am going to make it with a hand drill and a file!

Thanks for adding the pics
 
Gerhard

[HS93]

I am shore if you marked it up someone would mill it up it is so simple a hole 3 slots and two holes if you had your mill going it would take 1/2 an hour , what put me off making my own was a posting on a cnc site showing them making the pulley for the spindle and it showed it had to be taper bored plus some other clever stuff I found out later it was all wrong, but only when I had bought mine and looked at it. mine has the same rev range as you haveup to 4.000 rpm

peter

[HS93]

found these pictures they give a better view.

Peter

[Gerhard Olivier]

HI all and thanks for the pics again Peter

Got a bit done to get the mill running again
Started by making a MDF base freehand with a router - then used this to mill one fron 6mm Ali plate



Decided to leave the front ede Sqaure to add a Digi readout for the Z axis later on.

Will need a gaurd etc.. but at least it works now.


I also make a mistake with the Calculations and found that where I had before 1-1000 NS 0-2000 rpm as the speed range now I have 0-600 0-1400 and 0-2500   I think this will be ok if I find I need faster speed I can always remake the driver pulley.  The slow speed is very nice to use for boring and fly cutting.


Gerhard

[HS93]

when you have fnnished check for up and down movment of the main shaft. looking good

peter