Rotary table + chuck for mini mill?

[rvt]

I use this mill and the table listed below, with a set of clamps for securing the workpiece: http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machines-Accessories/Milling-Machines/Model-X0-Micro-Mill

Obviously, the problem is space! I'm increasingly finding the need for a rotary table. Mainly for cutting small circular grooves, but also for drilling several holes in a ring of metal. I think it could also be useful for cutting back tubing quicker (for example I've got a load of aluminium tubing that is 70mm ED, with a wall around 12mmm thick. I generally use it around 65mm to 60mm ED, which takes a lot of work on the lathe. I've checked around, this is the most economic size/cut I can get for the jobs too).

I'm not looking to spend a lot of money, simply because I don't have a lot... and it doesn't get extensive use. I think being able to mount it at 90 degrees could also be very useful, but not absolutely essential. Does anyone have the same Mill as me? 3" or 4" table?

A couple of 3" tables + chucks:

3" + 70mm 4 jaw chuck

3" + 65mm 3 jaw chuck

80mm chuck, like my lathe, but not sure it will fit...

80mm

Looks like there is 5" from the table to the bottom of the chuck. So around 4" from the table to the drill bit.

Any thoughts?

[John Swift]

Hi

would using a "stub" drill as used on automatic capstan lathes help ?

they are shorter than the normal "jobber" bit that you will normally use

I've seen drill bits cut down and the web thinned to maintain the small point !


 John



see here     http://www.thesitebox.com/Category/4164/stub-drills.aspx

[Bogstandard]

Your main problem is going to be your throat depth, the height between the top of the chuck jaws to the bottom of your tool holder.

There are really only two ways to be able to increase that space, the first being to buy the lowest RT + chuck setup, it looks to be #2 on your list. The other is to reduce the length of your tool holder, so instead of say a collet chuck, which can stick out of the bottom of your spindle a few inches, you use spindle collets instead (if available in your size), they allow you to get the tool mounted at the spindle nose. Unfortunately, unlike an ER or drill chuck, you are limited to what size they can hold.

Even people with large machines have this same problem.


Bogs

[HS93]

Proxxon do a low profile RT and chuck.

peter

[Jonny]

JT1 taper, poor chap pretty much stuck with it.
Rules out the superb MT/R8 collets, shame stuck with the only other solution them ER11 to JT1 shank.

What about making and replacing your column?

You can drill quite effectively with the disposable cheap FC3 end mills from J&L from £2 each, do it all the time on tapers. Most other reputable brands leave a massive hole.

[rvt]

Thanks for all the help & suggestions!

The last RT + 80mm chuck is 110mm from the base of the table, to the top of the jaws. Frustrating, so close, yet so far away. I'm not so sure about the two smaller ones, just not sure they'd be big enough for some of the larger pieces I hold... but they may be the only option still.

@John: wasn't aware of those stub drill bits. Thanks for the tip. I will have to look into them to help me gain a little more room. Can you get "stub" end mills too?

@bogstandard: thanks for your thoughts. Seems Jonny things I'm pretty much stuck with what i have in the way of a chuck on the spindle though

@Jonny: You've led me to my follow up question. Can you simply buy/make a longer column? Are there any issues with using a longer one/reasons to avoid it? I don't think i have the tools to make on myself. Do you know if I could buy one from somewhere? Or would I have to have one made by someone with more experience (I'm a complete newbie)?

Can you point me in the direction of these cheap FC3 end mills?

Thanks again!

[raynerd]

RVT - I know this isn`t offering any solution but I just wanted to say that I have the X2 mill, one from yours and I also suffer with this issue and it does frustrate.

Regarding what John said with the stub drills, I know it isn`t a prefered method and can generate error but I have found myself literally having only 10mm of space between the end of my chuck and the start of my work in which cases I`ve used a spotting drill and just spotted the holes to the max depth I have (5mm!) and then remove the job and drill fully through supporting in the vice and centering on each hole. Like I said, I`m not saying it is accurate, but it has twice been my only option! Spotting on the RT just allowed me to get the divisions needed.

Another thing I`ve done is to find alternative ways of holding the work to the RT therefore removing the chuck and providing extra space.   

I also make sure I`m using my ER32 collect chuck rather than my standard (drill??) chuck - it gives me a bit more room still.

I`m still learning so take my advice with a pinch of salt but I have the same problem all the time and I feel your pain! 

[j45on]

As HS93 mentioned proxxon do a tiny low profile table


http://www.axminster.co.uk/proxxon-proxxon-dividing-head-prod792175/

But it looks like it is hand turned and locked with the knob so probably of little use