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A few pics of my shop...
lordedmond:
Ralph
In your pic of the head unit on the wall with the cable clipped up and the unit plugged in, I do not see a ground wire from the Head unit to the mill , maybe not required for your unit , but my Newall has to have one ( they are quite specific about this ) , yes the head unit is fed from a power brick so is double insulated, the reason given is that it cleans up the reader signals .
just a point but might be worth checking
Stuart
Divided he ad:
Thank you Ian, I'm still interested in the swithing system you talked about too... a few photo's would be good :thumbup:
Anzaniste, watch out for the bit where the invoice comes through the door! They have had me that way in the past.The invoice turned up a few weeks later! :doh:
Hope it all goes well though. A few pic's in your thread wil be good too. I've still not done much at the mo' I've been so very busy these last few weeks ::)
Hi Dennis, Hopefully it will be a lot of fun.. Tomorrow is ear marked for learning to program PCDs and test a few ideas out too :)
Glad you liked the pic's. It really was a mission getting them up here, and when the computer crashed and I lost the whole first post.... :bang: and the air was blue too! :lol:
Stuart, Thanks for the nudge, I had fitted the lead when Iwas trying to get it to work but when it made no difference I removed it!
There was no mention of it by Allendale when I was trying to find out diagnostic hints? But I will look back over the instructions and see what it's all about.
Cleaner signals can't be bad :thumbup:
Here's to a bit of fun and accurate machining :beer:
Ralph.
DMIOM:
Ralph - just one little note ....
--- Quote from: Divided he ad on May 24, 2011, 04:56:57 PM ---....In the instructions it has all sorts of jiggery pokery with a finger/dial gauge... I opted for a different approach, ........My little Wixey digital angle meter. accurate to 0.1 of a degree will do me. ....... This approach will work just fine as it's set to zero on the mill table and then used to make sure the brackets are square to the table........
--- End quote ---
Levels of various sorts are great to trim the scales in roll and pitch, but can't help in yaw. With, for example, the Y scale, by using the level you can take out any vertical twist and and difference in height front-to-back; but what the level can't assess is if the two points on the base casting that the scale is mounted to are genuinely parallel to the Y axis. What you really need to do is to mount the scale base to the mill's base casting; run the table all the way over to the left as it is your first photos, and pop a mag mount indicator on the end of the table with the finger running on the scale base, and then run the table back and forth in Y - you may well find you have to shim the front or back end of the scale to get it true. (BTW, when I fitted these same scales to my Warco GH mill, I fitted the Y scale to the left of the base so as to leave free access to the gib lock screws).
Dave
Divided he ad:
Hi Dave,
I understand what you are saying bout the guages.
I'll look at it tomorrow when I'm in the workshop. No harm in checking.
I couldn't fit to the left hand side of the mill as the power feed unit is there. I can still access the locking screws quite easily though.... That's why the bracket is fitted to the back edge of the bed.
Ralph.
Bogstandard:
Ralph,
The standard practice for these sorts of mounts is to drill a hole in each corner and put a grub screw into each hole.
Then with the main clamp screws just tweaked up, and using the jacking grub screws, you can level the holding bar very accurately against almost any uneven surface.
The main clamp bolts don't have to be super tight, as very little force is required to move the heads, but if you are worried about it bending the mounting rail, you put more grub screw holes in strategic locations that are just tweaked up to touch after the four corner mounts have the rail perfectly level and vertical in all planes.
John
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