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| Solenoid engine Build |
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| CallMeAl:
Thanks for the comment Saw and David. Chuck: The solenoid is rated a 110V AC about 5A. My intention is to be able to plug it to run it. I know enough about electricity to be dangerous and have tried the coil with a 14.4V DC drill battery and it pulled the piston in with a lot of force. I may see if it works on DC, but that may cause some heating issues in the coil and arcing in the switches. |
| metalmad:
hay Mate Ive never seen a solenoid motor before but yours is looking great Pete :clap: |
| cfellows:
--- Quote from: CallMeAl on May 25, 2011, 10:17:00 PM ---Thanks for the comment Saw and David. Chuck: The solenoid is rated a 110V AC about 5A. My intention is to be able to plug it to run it. I know enough about electricity to be dangerous and have tried the coil with a 14.4V DC drill battery and it pulled the piston in with a lot of force. I may see if it works on DC, but that may cause some heating issues in the coil and arcing in the switches. --- End quote --- Since you are running in hit n miss mode, you could run the solenoid at a lot higher voltage / amperage. That would give you more of a power stroke giving you more RPM's between "hits". You can limit arcing at the switch by installing a clamping diode if you are using DC. Chuck |
| CallMeAl:
Pete: The rate I'm going on this you still might not ever see a solenoid motor! Thanks for your comment. Chuck: I'm fairly sure this is going to be a 110V motor. I have yet to figure out the "valving" but I have a idea of how I want to do it and I hope I can "tune" it in to make this thing actually work! :zap: |
| CallMeAl:
Now that I have a crank and the cross head, I wanted to try a different way, at least to me, to make a connecting rod to hook the two together. Started with a aluminum block and knocked the lead corners of with a ball mill and drilled a hole for the rod shaft. Turned down a piece of 1/2" bar to 3/8" on the end with my shop built tangential lathe tool holder, this will be held in the base with a set screw and some Locktite when finished. Tapered the rod, but left the end to cut for a the small end of the rod. Here is a couple of shots of the tool holder and bit. It doesn't do everything, but it cuts well, is easy to sharpen when you make the simple bit sharpening guide, and with the length of bit I have in it and how often I need to sharpen it the bit will out last me most likely! I drilled the base end for bolts, cut the end off for a cap, reinstalled the cap piece, drilled and reamed for the pin, and finally turned a clearance shoulder on the sides. Next was to drill the cross hole in the small end and flatten the sides. Rod assembled. Rod installed on the motor. After a little tuning, it operated smoothly. Now that the major mechanical components are in place, I will have to figure out the "valving" arrangement and actuation. Thanks for viewing. |
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