| Gallery, Projects and General > Project Logs |
| Cylinder Puzzle - Finished Weekend Project! |
| << < (9/17) > >> |
| Bogstandard:
--- Quote ---Kwackers - yep, snapped the pigging tip, it just chipped on the cutting surface. £25 for I bet seriously, 20 seconds of use, if that. I can`t get in touch with the bloody people from the stand nor can I remember the name of the stand I got it off. Anyone else at the Midlands show remember the man and woman selling tooling, up near the British Horology stand? --- End quote --- Why do you want to contact them? If it is to buy more tips, then really, you should know by now that when you buy new tooling, you should always buy spare tips. If it is to complain about the tool, there is only one person at fault, and it isn't the retailer. I see almost daily, going around various sites, people who are having trouble with parting off. There is no such thing as a perfect parting tool that will cure all. I have quite a selection of parting tools ready mounted up, and it is a matter of selecting the best tool for the job. Parting off and grooving can not be forced to work, it is a technique that has to be learned. No amount of upside down tooling, back toolposts, or any other gizmos are going to work with everything. If you can't part off using standard methods of setting up both your tool and machine to do the job, you will always struggle. I honestly don't think parting off can be taught in posts like this. That is why some people have so much trouble. Even after everyone and his dog has thrown their bit into the pot, and then spending copious amount of money on gizmos, they still can't do it. It is a matter of going right back to basics, how certain metals are machined, and how to set your machine and tooling up to ensure success. If a person isn't capable of doing those basic things, then all they can really do is spend their money on a good hacksaw. A machine and it's tooling is totally brain dead, it follows religiously the instructions it gets from it's master. Bogs |
| kwackers:
Parting off has always been a mystery to me - because I've never had any problems. When I first started my lathe came with some appalling carbide tools, the sorts of things that in order to get anything to happen you needed extra leverage on the wheels and that invariably meant the job jumped out of the chuck or made an appalling noise followed by a poor finish and lots of smoke. Fortunately I'd also just joined the local engineering club and in the first week guy from Greenwood tools came up to do a talk about tipped tools, the why's and wherefores. It was most informative, explained why you can't just use any old tipped tool that you happen to find lying around and why his stuff was good (obviously). His videos were most informative and I ordered a a couple of tools including his "kit-Q-cut" parting tool. Those tools have pretty much been the backbone of my basic tooling ever since. They cut anything, last a decent amount of time and give a finish has good as anything I've ever seen. The parting tool is mounted in a rear tool holder - not to give it rigidity because it works however I mount it, but simply so that having turned my part I can simply wind the cross slide the other way and part off. Speed doesn't seem to matter much, you just wind in the cross slide and 'listen', you get a nice "hiss" as the metal is peeled away, come in a bit too fast and the tone changes and sounds 'aggressive', too slow and the cut becomes intermittent and noisy. I mostly part using the power feed on the cross slide. The tooling has worked on my ancient (and crap) Chinese lathe and now works just as well on my Myford 254. One thing I've learned which may explain my "success" is a good engineer can do wonders with the shittiest of tools, but good tools flatter a poor engineer and I've learned to buy 'good' tools... :coffee: |
| AdeV:
I had problems in the past with parting off, mainly because the old toolpost had a tendancy to tip up as the forces increased, with the result that the tool just ended up underneath the work with the cutting edge rubbing off... No such hassles with the QCTP - although I have to make sure I've really wound the QCTP down onto the base, otherwise it has a tendancy to rotate when the cutting forces are high. I must admit, I do currently refuse to part off steel; but only because the only parting off tool I have is quite wide (0.15" at a guess), and is HSS... I'm not sure how such a wide cutter would behave with a harder metal. It will chomp through brass & ali with no problems whatsoever. |
| raynerd:
John - he didn`t have any at the show and asked me to ring the week after for more. I`ve rang and had no reply. As to the rest of your post - I`ll just carry on like the useless moron that I am but I`ll be happy with the hacksaw. I don`t mean to be rude - but this is getting very very :offtopic: :offtopic: :offtopic: :offtopic: :offtopic: I know I pick up loads and loads of useful tips on here from diverging conversations but this is getting a bit too heavy!!! So.... cylinder puzzles.........?? |
| Bogstandard:
Chris, There is no way I would class you as a moron, far from it, in certain areas and disciplines, your are light years ahead of me. My post was about what needs to be done for anyone to conquer parting off. That is the basic knowledge of how to cut each type of metal has to be mastered, and how and why each tool and machine behaves like it does while carrying out certain jobs. Once those two things have been mastered, you should have no more lathe cutting problems. John |
| Navigation |
| Message Index |
| Next page |
| Previous page |