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| Cutting a taper thread... |
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| spuddevans:
--- Quote from: Ned Ludd on November 13, 2010, 01:09:36 PM --- but if wood turners can do it, so can we. --- End quote --- Speaking as a former wood turner ( and a pretty below average one at that :lol: ) it takes a lot of practice. And it gets exponentially harder as you attempt coarser and coarser threads, try 22tpi and finer to get your eye-hand co-ordination into gear. Tim |
| Ned Ludd:
Hi Tim, Thread chasing in wood is made much easier with variable speed, the coarser the thread the slower you want the lathe to turn. Coarse threads need very slow speed and they also rely on crumble free wood. If you just want to clean up threads that you have screw cut then they are much easier to use as they follow a true path. Ned |
| AdeV:
Thread chasers are a sore point with me.... ever since I turned down about a cwt of them - brand spanking new in boxes - for little more than the price of scrap, basically because a) I wasn't sure about spending the money, and b) I didn't think I'd ever find a use for them :doh: The bloke selling them weighed them in. Probably got £20 for them. Bloody shame. I won't let that happen again, I can tell you. |
| bigmini:
--- Quote from: Pete. on November 12, 2010, 06:14:28 PM ---Using your fixed steady (or set-over the tailstock) you could have set the tube over a bit to produce a tapered thread. Might have to take measures to stop it walking out of the chuck though. --- End quote --- I did this to make a new manifold from a chunk of aluminium for my compressor. It fits on to the tank using a 1/2"BSP thread. It worked really well, but I drilled it out after cutting the thread. I'm not sure how easy it would be to do this with a pipe. |
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