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| Building another Stirling |
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| madjackghengis:
Beautiful work Olli, and a very fine lesson on the structure of the graphite, I appreciate the fine detail you go into and will store it for the future. Your guess is right, regarding the Stirling being a beta type, and I will do a build log when I get to that project, and decide in the mean time, exactly how I will do the cylinder. I really want to cast it of bronze, having a good bit of scrap, but I have to practice my wood working techniques some as it's been some time since I had to put draft on patterns. In the mean time, I'm looking forward to seeing this engine you build come to be, and see it running. :bugeye: :whip: :poke: mad jack |
| NickG:
Yep, Lovely work Olli, I love stirling engines, will be watching closely! Nick |
| cidrontmg:
Not much done today, but something. The two 50x4 mm brass platters will make the cylinder supports. I drilled plenty of holes to them and screwed them together and drew the center line. The cylinder centers will be 65 mm so I marked them, drew a couple of circles for the cylinder outlines and bolt holes, and drilled two M4 holes. I took some pictures, but managed to get them way off focus. I donīt much like the (Chinese) camera I recently bought, itīs really a camcorder, and does pretty awful stills. Min. focus seems to be about 50 cm... A new (Japanese) camera is on the way... Anyway, I used the B&D to remove most of the excess brass, and put the platters into the rotab. And (slowly and carefully) milled the outlines of the cylinders. And drilled the fixing holes (M3 for the time being). An M4 cylinder head is not much to hold on in the chuck. But it went rather well. And here they are still together. I will use M4 screws to fix the cylinders, M3 seems rather skimpy. The cylinder central holes will need to be opened up quite a bit, and Iīll fly cut all the surfaces, although the brass stock was rather clean and not too scratched. But the brass might be a bit warped, and the sides that will go together when assembled, will need to be true and flat. And the platters are unnecessarily thick. Iīll use M4x16 stainless screws because I have a huge stock of them. The thread length in M4x16 is 12 mm, so it leaves just 4 mm to go in the cylinder. It would surely be enough, but if I fly cut 0.25 mm from each surface, it will be another mm, for the six screws. Certain is certain... :thumbup: There will also be a milled channel in the middle of (at least) one of the pieces, to pass the air (pressure) between the cylinders. Thatīs for maybe tomorrow. Weather forecast is rain, time to stay indoors. :wave: |
| NickG:
Nice work again olli. I think I am getting tool envy as it seems a great deal more can be achieved with rotary tables, I have to stick to basic shapes. I guess you still need experience and the right techniques though, if I tried it it would probably end up like a dogs dinner! Nick |
| cidrontmg:
Nothing done today, it didnīt rain as promised, and the new camera arrived. This thing (Canon SX20) focuses from 28 mm on. Thatīs practically touching the lens. Some learning curve ahead, it is a point-and-click, but thereīs lots of ways to make bad pictures even so. One sample that wasnīt a total failure. :wave: |
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