Building a Modern Pneumatic Airgun

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Jonny:
I only wear gloves in conditions outdoors like yesterday and today.

Brass does hurt when taking a cut coming off a wall 5 foot away but extremely rarely use it. Not even for the valves, well first three were manganese bronze similar. Either steel, stainless or aluminium, brass i have a phobia it just looks cheap.

Looks like similar arrangement to the Titan valving and in response earlier regarding size, its relevant to port through hole behind acetal valve. Same as Titan/Falcon smaller is better and still think you will have long term probs with cutting acetal valve at same angle as brass.
On a flat it will sound better, close easier and seal better after run in.
For this you will have to make several valves to see what size and shape is best.

Nothing like an Alros thats a proper two stage trigger using Vanadis and M5 tool steel for main two sears, ground wont last 5 mins.

Even copying others it still takes more time than its worth, to design and work everything out on first 3 i made if got 50p/hr would have had to charge around £10k ea including hand made stocks.
For the last 17 years more involved in the aftermarket accessories worldwide.

Brass_Machine:
Nice work!

Hoegaarden glass for quenching... hehe. One of my favorite beers...

Eric

Stot:
Got some work done on the breeches this week.

There are a few turning and milling operations so I did the turning and set the lathe up for milling the the rest of this and most of the other parts from now on.

Standard design for this part is for a single shot. I've re-designed it a bit to allow use of a 10 shot Daystate magazine. Ill be making a single shot sled too, so even if the multi shot doesnt work out its not real loss.

To cut the dovetails for the scope mounting I decided to use a straight mill end and cut a slope in the sides to create the dovetail rather than use a dovetail mill end. This is cheaper if you dont have a dovetail cutter, and I think looks better than a flat topped design.

As Im using the lathe to do my milling, Im using the measure 100 times, cut once rule. ::)

So,

* Mark the bore center on the bar stock and mount in the 4 jaw chuck. Use a center to check alignment.
* Drill out to size.
* Check slip fit with the bolt.
* Flip the bar around, check center and drill again.
* Mark up for mounting holes, loading/magazine slot and dovetail position.
* Set the lathe up for milling.
* Found zero and check alignment using wriggler. I made sure the wriggler found zero at the same point both ends.
* Drill center holes, then drill through holes.
* Cut slot for magazine.
* Set up tilting table at 30 degrees to cut a 60 degree dovetail.
* Figure out how to mount the breech in the right postion without a proper hold down kit this size. :bang:
* Cut one side of dovetail. Flip over and cut the other side.
* Finish the end of at an angle.

Still more to do on these, but so far so good.

Cheers
Stot

Jonny:
You need a miller saves all the faffing about.
In saying that first 7 was done with just a Myford ML7, took an eternity.

Dovetail cutters are cheap i have loads even for 3/8 rails used on German.
Picatinny

German to suit Sportsmatch rail
Long breach block, short rear where yours is long, cant believe this is No7 in Tungum alloy tube December 1995, piccy about 8 years ago and rotting away. 5th side lever.

Front looks quite short but will be ok. Looks thin where machined out for mag ie flex. Decent barrel fit in to breach unlike what you are copying using grub screws to centre barrel.

Brass_Machine:

--- Quote from: Stot on December 01, 2010, 06:35:02 PM ---...

As Im using the lathe to do my milling, Im using the measure 100 times, cut once rule. ::)

...

--- End quote ---

And doing a great job of it. Those look stellar.

Eric

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