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Joining polypropylene

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Brass_Machine:
I have never tried any of the adhesives. I have done a ton of 'welding' though. I don't have any hotair sources so I used an old soldering iron. I cut up a small strip of poly to use as filler rod and carefully plastic soldered the two pieces together. Works like a champ if you take your time.

If you use one of the chemicals, please let us know how it goes. I for one would like to know.

Eric

picclock:
Many thanks for the info.

The adhesive method would work better for me but I am fairly sceptical about how good the adhesives are. I think its likely the 4693H will be better because its a flexible adhasive. The shop4glue product appears to be a cyanoacrylate product which is likely to fail due to its inflexibility.

I tried bogstandards link http://www.highbeam.com/doc/1G1-108837737.html but you need a subscription which you cancel.

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?mwsId=66666UuZjcFSLXTtnxfVmXs6EVuQEcuZgVs6EVs6E666666--
is the data sheet on Scotch-Weld 4693H. Its a synthetic rubber type adhesive.

The Shop4Glue.com site has a very wide range of adhesives but I'm slightly put off by the name 'KAPOW' on the bottle label. It appears to be an activated cyanoacrylate product. I couldn't find any associated data sheets.

However, I will do some tests on the two adhesives and see if they work as well as they say. When I have the info I will post the results.

Many thanks

picclock

HS93:
E-Mail the guy he is very knolable or just ring him he is very helpfull and will explain all about it.I have started using his flexi epozy and super Glues as they do not got britle and so you can knock them of if the parts are a bit flexable as in model hulls it is great stuff but is is a bit slower than he says it is, but not by much.

Peter

Bogstandard:
I have been trying to find a good bonding agent for perspex and other derivatives for years and have only found one that is to my liking, even though everyone says that their glue will stick it.

I think that is the main problem with these adhesive types, they will etch into the surface and stick the bits together, but the bond strength is only as good as the adhesive strength, not the original material strength.

It is for that reason I would still recommend some sort of mechanical fixing as well, just to make sure that the original material is physically acting between themselves, rather than just relying on the glue strength alone.


Bogs

andyf:

--- Quote from: bogstandard on October 17, 2010, 05:40:58 AM ---I have been trying to find a good bonding agent for perspex and other derivatives for years and have only found one that is to my liking, even though everyone says that their glue will stick it.....


--- End quote ---

Though this is a bit off Picclock's topic, I've had good results with ether (diethyl ether), if you can get hold of some. It dissolves it, so you end up with a weld-type joint, rather than a layer of adhesive between two surfaces. Probably best done outdoors, to avoid anaesthetising yourself.

Wikipedia says it's poly(methyl methacrylate) originally sold as Plexiglas and now known by various trade names including Perspex and Lucite. The article says it "can be joined using cyanoacrylate cement, more commonly known as superglue, with heat (melting), or by using solvents such as di- or trichloromethane* to dissolve the plastic at the joint which then fuses and sets, forming an almost invisible weld."

* I think that might be chloroform. Sleepy business, this.

Andy

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