Another 4" CNC rotary table

Gallery, Projects and General > Project Logs

<< < (4/19) > >>

Rob.Wilson:
Hi Jason :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:

i am watching with interest ,,, GREAT STUFF :D

Rob

tumutbound:

--- Quote from: j45on on October 16, 2010, 06:12:24 PM ---Eric
According to the company that sell the toner kit they claim that only GBC laminators work because they have heated rollers
Apparently other laminators heat between the rollers and don't work

--- End quote ---

There's an article here about improving the GBC laminator for this sort of work.

[While you're there, check out their article on building a spot welder :thumbup:]

Brass_Machine:

--- Quote from: tumutbound on October 16, 2010, 06:20:51 PM ---
--- Quote from: j45on on October 16, 2010, 06:12:24 PM ---Eric
According to the company that sell the toner kit they claim that only GBC laminators work because they have heated rollers
Apparently other laminators heat between the rollers and don't work

--- End quote ---

There's an article here about improving the GBC laminator for this sort of work.

[While you're there, check out their article on building a spot welder :thumbup:]

--- End quote ---

Great info and link!

Thanks

Eric

kwackers:
Nice PCB! Good luck drilling the holes - I always miss one. Many's the time I'm trying to squeeze a carbide drill between components on a nearly completed board...

BTW the 33 caps are in pf so you are correct. Looks like you'll be able to test it soon! You can test it without plugging it into stepper drivers etc. Even without a keypad you can still see the startup splash screen (check the contrast if not! ;-)
You can also mimic the keypad with a bit of wire if you don't have one - just look at the 8 pins R1-R4 and C1-C4, by 'shorting' a row pin to a column pin you can 'press' a key.

It's also a good idea before the IC is plugged in and the LCD connected that you apply power and check the voltage to the IC power lines is 5v (otherwise you'll sulk - particularly if you lose the LCD...)

To mount the LCD (so that it could be removed should I ever need to) you may wish to use SIL headers and sockets (the sockets I made simply by cutting up old IC sockets).
Even if you don't use the headers the best way is to bolt the LCD to the pcb using the standoffs and then feed the wires through both and solder them up. For a while you can bend the LCD up out of the way on it's wires if you need to, obviously too much and the wires will snap.
If you use the SIL headers and sockets, solder the sockets to the LCD and bolt the LCD to the PCB then push the headers through from the back until they're a good fit into the socket (this is the easiest way to get them the right length) then solder them up.

raynerd:

--- Quote from: kwackers on October 17, 2010, 04:46:48 AM ---...without a keypad you can still see the startup splash screen (check the contrast if not! ;-)

--- End quote ---

Yes, that has caused me hours of pointless trouble shooting!

Nice going - your PCB looks excellent!

Navigation

 Message Index

Go to full version