Stuart 10V Build Log

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madjackghengis:
Hi Chris, The method you suggest, with each bearing done separately in the same side is a good one if you're sure the two sides are indeed parallel, and your angle plate is square. I think I would go with a jig, a simple enough one if you are not sure of the two sides being right on in place, just a block with the proper sized hole drilled, then the block milled off to give you the half hole you need, ensuring of course the block is square, and either drill mounting holes in both the bearings and the block, or a good solid clamp set up, and flycutting the top face of the bearing half, then center drilling, step drilling, and finally reaming. I suggest this, as it puts the bearing halves right together, and does not leave the unsupported width for the drill. I use a bushing on the shaft of the reamer when I'm reaming the cover bushing for the end of a Harley crankshaft, the bushing fits the reamer shaft, and into the needle bearing in the engine case, aligning the two. I would do the same if the reamer cutting edges don't cross the unsupported area, to ensure the reamer is parallel to the intended bore. Of course I have a crank case empty, in hand, to supply the inner needle bearing and to bolt the cover to. I've got about three inches between the needle bearing and the bushing, where the cam goes, so the shaft of the reamer definitely needs support to remain parallel. You're moving right along now, should be running soon :poke: enjoying watching the build. mad jack

raynerd:
I`ve been making some steady progress on this engine and finally I feel I`m getting somewhere. I finished the bearings but it was hard work. My drill wondered on the first hole which made it very tough to re-centre. I managed it by bolting a small strip of steel on the underside of the flat face which I used as the datum as it was this surface giving the relative position to the bore. I bolted both next to each other on this plate and then trapped in my vice. I then held it in the vice and pushed the drill through slowly from the other end. This worked really well and centered the hole. I finally reamed to size:

I then went onto the crank:

I did the webs first. I cut the 2" stock in half and soft soldered the two pieces together drilling the holes and filing the radius (which worked well - I`m getting better at filing!)

Polished:

And attached the assembly together ready for cutting the middle section out during my next session.

kwackers:
Just a thought.

Why didn't you ream the two bearings in place (i.e. bolted to the soleplate)? It's generally much better to do this since if there is any tiny amount of misalignment you'll still end up with the bore inline.
I'd also suggest reaming under power rather than with a tap wrench.

NickG:
Good point, it would have ensured alignment but it seems to have worked by the look of the pictures. The reamer he is using is a hand reamer though.

Nick

raynerd:
Kwackers - I know we discussed that and it was my plan BUT when I was drilling, I was concerned that those little 7BA bolts were under too much stress and I wasn`t happy with it. Don`t get me wrong, they bolt up good and tight but it just didn`t feel right. The method I used did work ok, thanks Nick and I`m totally lost as to using a reamer!! I believed these were hand reamers as they have the little square at the top and hence I used a wrench.... can you use them under power?

By the way - I know we also discussed just using D-reamers to do this job but I went to the midlands show a few weeks back and for £2.50 a pop - it was quicker and easier to get a reamer!

Chris

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