Stuart 10V Build Log

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madjackghengis:
Hi Chris, kwackers is absolutely right, sets of reamers are not the way. For your one off job, I'd drill close to size, leaving say a sixteenth, and take a piece of silver steel or drill rod, turn it to five thirty seconds and polish it nice, and make a "D" bit type reamer, mill it half way through after turning a good radius on the end, stone the flat side, making sure you leave a few thousandths for stoning, don't go past half thickness, and harden the end. I have also taken a sharp drill bit, stoned the cutting lips to a radius, trying to be dead equal on both, and found the closest drill to size possible, drill it, and use the stoned on size drill as a reamer. It will follow the hole, and the radiuses on the cutting edges will act as a reamer, rather tight, but a smooth finish will result. Run it in and out several times, and test that the rod clears it. By the way, the cylinder ports look good and you definitely have the head well made, and well drilled for bolts. you're engine is moving forward quite nicely. Can't wait to see it run. It looks like the iron you've got is top notch, and works well, always a blessing with castings. Question for you, is that rotary table set up digital by yourself? I'm looking at doing the same thing, but interupted by the flood. I've got a cam to mill for my radial engine, and I don't like the dials and vernier on my taiwanese rotary table. On subject, I take it you cleaned up the ports on the valve face and have them nice and straight as to the edges which will control your "cutoff" and effect your valve timing. It looks like paint and polishing the engine up will be the most time consuming part, you're making very good progress, and your parts are looking very good. ttfn, :poke: jack

raynerd:
Madjack: thanks for the reply. Yes, the rotary table is digital and is the best thing I have made. It is a Vertex 4" Rotary table and I made a post on it here:

http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=2242.0

The electronics is all down to Kwackers - a very very impressive microcontroller code which he has made freely available here, including circuit diagrams etc.:

http://www.mycncuk.com/forums/showthread.php/150-CNC-Rotary-table-lathe-head-indexing

It works a treat - truely amazing! Great for clock wheels as well. It`ll do any division from 0-999, continuous motion, set programs.... :smart: :ddb:

madjackghengis:
Hi Chris, that is a very impressive video, and I will be looking at Kwacker's log to see how he set it up. I've been sort of following your own build log on it, but didn't get in the very beginning, and was left a bit bemused by it, however, I've been messing around with stepper motors, controls, and your build had long convinced me to do the same with my eight inch table. I appreciate the link to Kwacker's build, and will follow it and get the rest of the electronics you show, but I didn't get the detail on. I never cease to be amazed at the variety of skills which such forums get assembled and interacting. Thanks very much for the info. :bow: jack

raynerd:

--- Quote from: madjackghengis on October 12, 2010, 10:37:13 AM --- I never cease to be amazed at the variety of skills which such forums get assembled and interacting.

--- End quote ---

MadJack - I totally agree with that! If it wasn`t for that project and wanting to know more about how the PIC code was written, I then went to buy a development board and play around with PICs. I`m not expert, but I can now programme a PIC and make it do some nice things like my X-axis power feed!

Good luck, let us know how it goes.

The stuart is on hold for a few days until I get down to the Midlands Engineering show where I can purchase some taps, dies and reamers that I need.

All the best,
Chris

j45on:
Wow that is great I have the same RT and have never fitted the plates as they looked confusing :doh:
This may be a future project for me :thumbup:

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