Stuart 10V Build Log

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raynerd:
Thanks Richard for your help!

I plucked up the courage to start machining some of my castings this evening. I seemed to have some sort of unfounded fear that I`d manage to chip or crack a casting some how, but strangely enough, it all went very well....infact, too well !

Despite reading all the books and the current ME article running at present on the 10V build, I chose to use my mill to true up the castings rather than mess around with jigs on the lathe. I`m not trying to be lazy but most of the books are aimed at lathe only workshops so I may as well utilise what I have. It was an excellent opportunity to use my X-axis controller power feed for the first time and I`m buzzing, it worked an absolute blinder! The finish is top notch and ten times better than what I was getting by hand and also the ease of use was great - find your left and right limits and just keep working between them taking cuts each time! It was luxury!!

Less woffle...here are some pictures, they are self explanatory:

Truing up the machine base and top.

I was impressed with the finish using my power feed!

Box bed top and bottom

Feet of the standard

Standard top which will seat the cylinder "before"!

,...and after

And all the bits piled in position!

Machining the holes/slots for the fly wheel bushes - I was wanting to use an end mill but didn`t have one of the right size so a drill bit did the job just as well. I took it through nice and slowly.

And how the bearing fits in position

Ok, nothing amazing....I best get reading, onto the more taxing jobs now!!

Bernd:
Chris,

I'm amazed that when you milled the feet of the "standard" that it didn't come flying out of the vise. :bugeye: Reason being, your holding that part by very little with the jaws. Next question will be how parallel will those two surfaces be, the feet and where the piston will be attached. It'll be interesting when you bore out the hole how square it will be with the casting and the crank.

Good luck.

Bernd

raynerd:
Bernd, thanks for your input. :D I`m still learning! Could you offer any suggestions as to how I should have held it? I felt I had a good grip on it with my vice or I wouldn`t have attempted machinging, only doing light cuts, it wasn`t going anywhere. Much more secure than how I had it clamped down by the feet on the lathe.

I don`t see why there would be an issue with regards to the feet and top being parallel but I do think that when I bore the hole I`ll have to skim the top face as well so that the bore in the standard will be at 90deg to the face.

Advice appreciated..... I don`t post to show you how...I post for help and for people to pick up on these things so I can learn.

John Rudd:
You might have been better securing the standard to a plate or block by bolting and then holding the block in the vice... :scratch:

Chris what size is that facing cutter you are using please?

raynerd:
John thanks for the suggestion although I think Bernd was talking about milling the feet; that the circular top of the standard wasn`t secure enough in the vice and I can understand where he was coming from. Although I thought it was secure and milling went OK, I did have concerns/thoughts about the issue at the time. Obviously I judged it was OK and went ahead. I wanted to mill the feet first so that this was the reference face and I could have used your idea of bolting this down, but without being faced I wouldn`t have liked to drill the holes in this for the cylinder so early on(and use these holes to bolt it down to a block).

Hummm, it is interesting.

How would most people go about boring the hole in the standard - I was going to use my mill but now pondering whether to mount on a faceplate on the mill!?! OR perhaps use Johns idea and drill the bolt holes on the feet of the standard and mount it on a block and hold it in the lathe in a 4 jaw.

John, the cutter was a 3MT I think 2" (or 2 1/4") from RDG - http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/copy_of_FACEMILLS__INDEXABLE__2_MORSE_TAPER.html

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