The Craftmans Shop > Backyard Ballistics

Rifle Barrel

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19114ME:
My first post other than introduction but I have some experience in this area. There are several way to do this and thankfully these barrels cut nice and easy. A spider works well as stated earlier. Depending on where you are chucking the barrel the taper may not be much and you could try some brass shim stock between the chuck jaws and barrel, a pin gauge to indicate off the bore would be nice. I would also fab an aluminum bushing or spider for the other end sticking out of the lathe too or else it will whip around a lot.

I typically rough cut the barrel outside the lathe (hacksaw) and draw file close so i only have to do minimal truing in the lathe.  I have found these barrels to run with the bore pretty consistently. 

While you are working on the barrel you can really improve the accuracy very easily. Typically Ruger 1022 barrels have far too long a throat or leade for good accuracy. In your lathe face the breach face back .100 thou and the corresponding shoulder the same amount. make a shim to take up the difference so the original barrel locking v block will still work. You will also need to recut the extractor groove, easy to do with a small file just measure the original before you make the breach face cut to see how to restore it.  A very light chamfer around the chamber too as the original. You will be rewarded with near match barrel performance from a stock looking barrel. I've built some "sleepers" that will embarrass rifles with high priced match barrels.  I also recut the crown.

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